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Traditional Route (the South East Ridge) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A1

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A1 [details]
FA: possibly prehistorical, modern FA report Kisaburo Seko on Aug 4, 1927
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: Anmin Deng on Jan 7, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Mt Dabajian viewed from the south (at I Love You p...

Limited by National Park regulations MORE INFO >>>


While it is possible people could have climbed the summit in prehistorical times, the modern FA report of Mt Dabajian was by Kisaburo Seko (an instructor of Taipei 1st high school, where I was a student of Taipei 1st high school in 1980's) as a soloist leading climber of a climbing team of Taiwan Alpine Club via south east ridge (the traditional route) on Aug 4, 1927.

Top and bottom sections of the route are generally unroped class 4 to easy 5 climbing. The only crux pitch is in the middle there is a 3-4 meter high overhanging rock face.


. From Zhongba hut, hiking along the trail south to the north wind gap with steel bars for strong wind protection. Continue the trail about 100 meters south along the base of the west wall then turn left (east) and up hill along the base of south wall. Meet a road sign and turn left in very thick bamboos. Continue the trail up hill to the east end of south wall. It is the south east ridge. Very likely you will see some fixed ropes or aiding devices on the route.

. get down: down climbing the route. at the crux, climbers may want to use the bolt or natural pros on-site for rappel.


. Sometimes tourists brought a ladder (or making a ladder DIY of the trees on-site) to climb this crux section and left on the wall.
. Sometimes there would be some fixed ropes at the crux.
. However, national park rangers would remove the fixed ropes and ladders regularly.
. 1 bolt above the crux for rappel.
. with small trad gears or pitons or directly tying webbing onto natural rock features, free (5.10+) or aid (A1) climb the crux.
. (as the modern FA report) standing on other's shoulders.

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