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The Stadium
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Tradisfaction 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jared Hancock - 2004
Page Views: 2,522
Submitted By: eDixon on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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My favorite route in the Red all week.

Description 

Climb up a short broken chimney to a ledge. From the ledge climb the right-facing dihedral using jams, stems, and liebacks to a bolted anchor.

Location 

This is the farthest route to the left at The Stadium. You can't miss this dihedral.

Protection 

(2) sets of Camalots to #1, (1) set nuts


Photos of Tradisfaction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan engaging the layback on Tradisfaction.
Ryan engaging the layback on Tradisfaction.
Rock Climbing Photo: no one puts jakob in the corner...
no one puts jakob in the corner...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tradisfaction for sure.
Tradisfaction for sure.

Comments on Tradisfaction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jimmy Sledd
From: Bozeman, Montana
Apr 4, 2016

Maybe I was being a big baby (second trad climb of the season) but this felt more like mid-5.10 to me. If you have big meat-hooks, bring at least 2 and maybe 3 .75 Camalots. Gear is great, I took a solid whip from the upper lieback.. Excellent route!
By highneed
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The climbing is immaculate and the bottom of the dihedral is harder then it looks. If it had it own anchor instead of sharing with Kentucky Waterfall, which make the last move weird this would be my favorite 1 pitch 5.10 anywhere.