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My favorite route in the Red all week.
Climb up a short broken chimney to a ledge. From the ledge climb the right-facing dihedral using jams, stems, and liebacks to a bolted anchor.
This is the farthest route to the left at The Stadium. You can't miss this dihedral.
(2) sets of Camalots to #1, (1) set nuts
Ryan engaging the layback on Tradisfaction.
no one puts jakob in the corner...
By Jimmy Sledd
From: Bozeman, Montana
Apr 4, 2016
Maybe I was being a big baby (second trad climb of the season) but this felt more like mid-5.10 to me. If you have big meat-hooks, bring at least 2 and maybe 3 .75 Camalots. Gear is great, I took a solid whip from the upper lieback.. Excellent route!
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
The climbing is immaculate and the bottom of the dihedral is harder then it looks. If it had it own anchor instead of sharing with Kentucky Waterfall, which make the last move weird this would be my favorite 1 pitch 5.10 anywhere.