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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Ivory Coast S,TR 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Livin' on a Prayer S 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 385', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,298
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Nov 11, 2013

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Actually, this isn't even a route; instead, it's a highly contrived "multipitch" adventure linking together seven short and moderate trad routes (5.6-5.8) on six pinnacles as you work your way uphill, with very short walks (15-100') between all but the first two routes. The bolts on a few routes can be safely bypassed using gear instead to convert each route into a pure trad route.

Pitch 1 options: Forrester's Crack 5.7, Far Side Chimney 5.6, The Pile 5.8, or Near Side Chimney 5.6.

Pitch 2 options (can be linked with pitch 1): Rite of Passage 5.6 or Initiation Rite 5.6. Descend via rappel down the north face.

Pitch 3: options: Old Tradition 5.7 or Old Spice 5.9. Descend via class 4 off west end (rappel down north face not recommended as the rope easily gets stuck).

Pitch 4: North Face of Hummingbird Spire 5.7. Rappel off a single but solid bolt.

Pitch 5: Planet of the Grapes 5.6. No rappel anchor (unless you leave a sling); descend by lowering your partner down the route and rappelling down the other side of the rock while your partner anchors you.

Pitch 6: Koka 5.8. Descend via class 3 walkoff.

Pitch 7: Left Behind 5.7. Finish by climbing the upper blocks to the summit of the crag, then descend a trail down gullies to the east of most crags back to the base of The Far Side (you won't get lost!).


Begins with the lowest crag and ends at the highest crag.


1 set of cams up to 4" or 5" (up to 2" will suffice) and 1 set of nuts.

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By Floyd Hayes
Nov 11, 2013

Trying to do something new and different at The Far Side, I first linked these routes on November 10, 2013 with Cheri Ermshar. For pitch 1 we climbed Far Side Chimney and for pitch 2 we climbed Rite of Passage. A video of the climb is posted here
By splitclimber
Jul 6, 2015

Haha. What a great outing. Good climbing throughout esp. old tradition above war party.

We did far side chimney - initiation rite - old tradition - hummingbird spire - koka. I'm going big on the star rating.

We skipped on the other two short climbs mentioned to keep a pretty consistent upward movement throughout the linkup.

Clipped the first bolt you encounter on Koka but otherwise all gear. you could even skip some of the bolted anchors and built your own anchor on some of these.

Chimney, offwidth, hand cracks, finger cracks, face climbing, free hanging rappel and some lichen - what more could you ask for. :)

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