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B. Middle Cliff Routes
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Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

Traction Splint  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Dylan Oliver, Conor mark 7/16
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Conor Mark on Aug 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The start

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

The beginning of this route really needs a bolt. Originally, Dylan though this would be a roof crack, but the start pushes you out onto the face. With a bolt and some more cleaning on the upper crack, this would get another star.

Scramble up to a large ledge, get gear in the crack, and follow better holds on the face up to a cruxy lip encounter. Pull around onto the face, much more easily and with fantastic views up the wide crack.

Bolted rappel anchor on the next prominent buttress climber's left brings you back to your packs.

Location 

~100 ft. left of Snap, Crackle, Pop, in the prominent alcove.

Protection 

Standard rack to #4 camalot. No fixed anchor, belay on top of the cliff from gear.


Photos of Traction Splint Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper part of the route
BETA PHOTO: The upper part of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Dylan on the FA
Dylan on the FA

Comments on Traction Splint Add Comment
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By Kris Fiore
Administrator
From: Burlington, Vermont
Aug 25, 2016

Unnamed?? Really, guys?! Haha.
By doliver
Aug 25, 2016

Lets call it Traction Splint. Fitting as a fall from the crux would not be pretty. A more Aesthetic direct start on the face around the corner would be a better way to access the enjoyable wide crack above and should have bolts installed sometime this fall.
By Conor Mark
From: Asheville, NC
Aug 25, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Traction splint
Traction splint

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