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Toymakers Dream 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pat Contor, Lori Ness 1988
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: grk10vq on Nov 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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About to launch into the slabbage of some toymaker...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A crack, a seam, slab and face? What more could you want? Toymaker's Dream is a variety show (aka mixed route) dipping into a small assortment of styles and techniques. Although very straightfoward, you'll find yourself doing a lot of second guessing on the difficult and technical, upper crux.

Climb a short, left traversing flake/ramp to the first of four bolts. Continue straight from here up a long, thin seam that splits the slab. Look here for a good rest or two on a few well deposited chicken heads. (The gear through this section is minimal, yet adequate) Reach and rest again at the down/left-leaning ramp with a long, sharp undercling. Protect in the overlap and switch to steep slab mode.
Leaving the ramp, force a bulge to the thin and intense face. Clip the second bolt and try to find a good stance before hitting the crux.
The final twelve feet of climbing passes two more bolts and involves a series of deliberate moves over small chickenheads. The exit has a great sequence with surprising results. Just shy of crazy!

Location 

Seated on the far east end of the buttress, Toymakers Dream is just up the gully and begins at an obvious ramp at the bottom of a seam.

At the top of the ramp is the easy to spot first bolt.

Protection 

Four bolts, cams to 3/4" inch, stoppers, and a two bolt anchor.


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Toymakers Dream.

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 26, 2009

I hear the Salt Lake Tribune gave this route its full endorsment!
By tenesmus
Nov 27, 2009

sounds kind of orgasmic for a 2-star route
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Pretty stout. The seam in the middle has protection, but it's spaced: perfect .5 camalot at the bottom, then micro nut(s) and tiny cam near the top. Those final slab moves are really tricky.
By jonathan knight
Mar 20, 2016

Wow, this is a good one!

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