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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Mar 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Toymaker differs a little in character from its neighboring 13a's. Instead of being an endurance challenge like the others, it features a single fierce boulder problem at 2/3 height.

Begin by climbing a steep section to the first bolt. After the first bolt negotiate an off width while stemming through a dihedral. Traverse 10 feet to avoid an impossible roof and then get ready for some straight forward climbing. For the next 15 feet the rock is steep and the holds alternate from square cut edges to slopers.

A really good rest awaits you before the crux boulder problem. The crux sequence is five moves long and culminates with a massive lunge to a good edge. A few more long reaches take you to a rest. The route finishes with a couple long lock offs between small crimps.

Often times a stream of water runs down the wall past the second bolt. Don't let this deter you from trying the route. Your rope will stay dry and you don't need to use any of the wet foot holds.

I avoided getting on this route because I thought the third bolt might have been missing. It is there, look hard and you'll see it camouflaged in the roof.


This route separates the long endurance routes on the left side from the short steep routes on the right side. Look for the starting off width/stem corner.


10 bolts + anchor

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