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(d) Aggro Gully
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Toxic 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Colin Lantz and Greg Robinson 10/87
Page Views: 16,100
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (177)
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Nailing the bucket after the successful dyno

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Toxic is short and sweet. It's probably the steepest moderate climb at Smith Rock. While the crux is somewhat height-dependant it's a dyno for virtually everybody. The holds are enormous and the fall isn't bad at all, so fire with everything you've got!

The large jugs are a welcome change from the crimps and pockets that are found on most routes here.

Toxic can be found at the far left end of the left side of the Aggro Gully. Belay from some large boulders at the base of the route.

Protection 

5 bolts and a bolted anchor


Photos of Toxic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Using the short person beta on the crux works for ...
Using the short person beta on the crux works for ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Throwing to the bucket of Toxic
Throwing to the bucket of Toxic
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Palo demonstrating the exceedingly awkward an...
Ryan Palo demonstrating the exceedingly awkward an...
Rock Climbing Photo: Some worn out hooks.
BETA PHOTO: Some worn out hooks.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another heel hook shot for toxic
BETA PHOTO: Another heel hook shot for toxic
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the crux for a short person involves an al...
Pulling the crux for a short person involves an al...
Rock Climbing Photo: stretching...
stretching...
Rock Climbing Photo: ooof!  gaining the bucket.
ooof! gaining the bucket.
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the rest jug.
Almost to the rest jug.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes, that IS the crux move.  Whatever your beta, t...
Yes, that IS the crux move. Whatever your beta, t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nailing the crux move.
Nailing the crux move.
Rock Climbing Photo: "how not to do it"
"how not to do it"

Comments on Toxic Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 19, 2017
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 28, 2006

AhHA!! Dyno for everybody!? Try a heel hook off the flake out on the right, you can do the move quite static if you get it figured out! Makes it easier too. Beautiful route!
By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 24, 2006

Fun crux, but way too short to be considered classic in my opinion.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 10, 2007

Not too short to be classic in my book as the moves are so fun on this one.

Hooking the flake makes it easier??? I think that may depend on your body type. For me it definately was not easier.
By Mark Gibson
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 15, 2009

If you grab the huge hole as kind of a sidepull with your left hand, work your left foot up high on a small edge and heel hook the flake, it is easier for everyone 5'8 and up.
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bishop
Dec 27, 2009

The heel hook is the way to go.
By GoSharks
From: CA
May 19, 2010

Rated 11c in the new Watts guide. Don't know why it got bumped up.
By Corey McCarthy
From: Redmond, OR
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Heel hook for sure.
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Aug 28, 2011

Super fun. It keeps on ya after the big move, but if you keep your head about you it's doable. Don't lose focus at the top, mantling on that ledge can be tricky!

Did something break off? I can't think of any reason the grade got bumped up.
By jordand
From: Seattle, WA
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun route, but kind of a one-move wonder. Above the crux it's a jug haul.
By Patrick R. M.
From: Mesa, AZ
Jul 8, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Climbed last Thursday (July 3rd), the mussy's are worn about halfway through. Still okay to lower off, but seem to be getting a lot of TR action.
By Rod J.
From: Bend, OR
May 26, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'm guessing that those who question the grade increase are 5'8" or taller. Ask a 'short' person what they think that it should be graded. (11d or harder?)
By ebethreegs
Sep 28, 2016

This route is fantastic. Beautiful movement (even after the crux) on big holds with a challenging clipping stance for the anchors.

I am not a particularly tall climber (5'5") and I found the heel hook beta to be THE beta for me, but I also avoid dynos at most costs. A smaller lady (5'0) was also there when I was on it and the heel hook worked for her too.

Super fun, dynamic moves. Do it. For a "short" person like me, I would still give it a hard 11b or soft 11c by Smith standards.
By Alexander K
From: The road
May 19, 2017

To add to the alternate beta spray:

I got on this after watching my partner go for the huge throw. I was able to work my feet high using the hueco and the undercling out right, then get a toe hook/cam with my left foot in the hueco, right next to my left hand. From there it was an easy static reach up to the next hold with my right. I didn't try heel hooking the flake but this made the moves feel very secure and not reachy.

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