REI Community
Toxic - Tang Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Even Steven T 
Even Steven (lower left) T 
Geek Corners T 
Roadside Floral Curtain S 
Route of All Evil or F.M.B., The T 
Slapshot S 
Tang T 
Toxic Shock T 
View from the Bridge, The T 

Toxic Shock 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Strong, Greg White
Page Views: 9,257
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Jan 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (192)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Unknown climbers on the 5.8 twin cracks variation.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Toxic Shock is one of the most gorgeous parallel 5.9 handcracks I've ever seen. To get there, follow the Inner Walls trail way up, cross the stream to your left, just below a large boulder, and continue up towards the west side of the canyon.

The Toxic Shock area has a crack and a bolted arete leading up to an intermediate ledge with a rap station. For Toxic Shock, either layback the crack to the left of the bolted arete (not terribly well protected), or start around the corner to the right on the two 5.8 cracks. Above the ledge, Toxic Shock is the gorgeous amazing handcrack.


Standard trad rack with several (2-4) #1 Camalots (or equivalent) unless you are very comfortable on Index 5.9. If you are starting with the 5.8 cracks, some bigger gear (e.g. #3 Camalot) is nice. There is a rap station/anchor at the top.

Photos of Toxic Shock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa on the 5.9 start :)
Lisa on the 5.9 start :)
Rock Climbing Photo: JP on the upper splitter crack of Toxic Shock
JP on the upper splitter crack of Toxic Shock
Rock Climbing Photo: JP on Toxic Shock
JP on Toxic Shock
Rock Climbing Photo: JP getting ready to send the 5.9 layback crux on T...
JP getting ready to send the 5.9 layback crux on T...
Rock Climbing Photo: From across the way.
From across the way.
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.9 start.
BETA PHOTO: The 5.9 start.

Comments on Toxic Shock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Addict
Feb 2, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The upper crack starts as #1 Camalot, but is mostly #2 Camalot. The first pitch protects perfectly with Aliens. There is a rest 1/4 the way up. Can easily be done as one pitch with the lieback start or one of the two 5.8 handcracks around the arete to the right.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 3, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A classic route. The left (layback) start protects perfectly with #0.5 Camalots or red Aliens. The upper crack does go from #1-#3 Camalots as the previous comment mentions. A good rack would be one set of small cams/TCUs, and then doubles of #1-#3 Camalots + nuts. I also did the right start which was fun, but not as enjoyable as the layback in my opinion.
By MegaGaper2000
From: Indianola, Wa
Mar 25, 2012

Lower left crack (before intermediate ledge) is inward flaring, I think that's what the OP meant by 'harder to protect.
By Douglas T
Aug 4, 2013

By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 5, 2013

Another nice video. Good job.

A little drama on the layback at the start, but then a jam cruise.
By Alex Seattle
Sep 8, 2014

#2 camalot is still fixed near top of pitch. I believe if you use the Even Steven approach (eg right side of the arête) then the whole thing is only 5.8
By Russ Keane
Dec 30, 2016

Some serious taping on those hands... in the video
By George Zack
From: Orting, WA
Jul 16, 2017

Fun climb. Felt easier and better protected than the other 5.9 classics at the Lower Town Wall. Bust a move off the ground and place your crux pro above your head from a great stance. Pull the couple of crux layback moves with that gear at your waist, then continue up easy ground that's protects well with nuts to the base of the upper crack. The upper crack starts as a very tight #3 size (#3 cam not necessary), but is otherwise gold and red jams with a jug and great stance near the top. Singles .3-.75. Doubles 1-2. Medium/large nuts.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About