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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Toxic Gumbo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 2/05
Page Views: 3,796
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 24, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Aidan leading Toxic Gumbo


A fun addition to this section that was better than i thought it would be.

Start from the ledge near the big tree and work the rope out so it runs straight. I just throw the rope around the tree so the belayer can stand under the start of the route.
Anyway, climb the steep corner above, working the feet and making a tough move out left to a good stance. Move up and right and tackle a slight bulge to a slab with little crimps (getting on to the slab felt like the crux). Enjoy a nice ledge then finish one more vertical section on jugs and technical stuff to the anchor.


On the right side of the A and D wall. Start on a dirt ledge near a large tree trunk.


10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. A longer draw here and there and maybe a shoulder sling at the transition from the slab into the final steep keeps the rope running well.

Photos of Toxic Gumbo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave climbing the opening corner...
Dave climbing the opening corner...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 18, 2017
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 5, 2009

This is my new favorite 5.8 at Rumney. Fun jug hauling to start, then pulling the bulge and over the slab with awesome crimps, and then fun juggy flakes to the chains. On top of that there's no chalk on the route! which makes it that much more no one climb it so we can keep it that way ;)
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Is this the route to the right of The Big Easy? looks and sounds fun
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 6, 2009

I believe so, scramble up to the same ledge and then walk over right to the bolt line
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Ok cool thanks man
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

FA Mark Sprague 2/05
By twellman
From: Cambridge
May 27, 2010

Is it possible to get to the ledge directly below Millennium Falcon from here? Does this route go just left of that ledge?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 27, 2010

yup that works fine, just a little vegitated traverse to the base of millennium... i dont think there is a bolted belay there though... you could belay from a tree if not...
By kenr
Oct 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

In addition to the fun moves, some thoughtful navigation in a couple of places.
I had some rope drag in the upper section (I guess due to the transition from the lower overhang to gentler section immediatly above) -- not sure what to do about it, anyway the climbing was easy enough so it didn't get in my way.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Mar 27, 2013

As of 3/26/13, the left fixed clip on this route is broken. When I found it it was stuck permanently in the open position and has a weird string hanging from it. Not sure what this was about. Just giving the heads up.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 27, 2013

Matt, you should submit an entry here as well:
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Mar 27, 2013

Thanks, Jeff. Now I know for the future!
By J Meagher
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun jug-hauling and stemming up the corner and a great slab above. One of my favorite 5.8's on main cliff
By Russ Keane
Sep 25, 2014

Really nice, steep climb. Nothing sketchy, not too hard for the grade.
By SteveMarshall
Nov 10, 2014

I climbed this last night on 11/9/14 - there is a right-facing flake jug in the top 3rd of the climb right after the under-cling block. It felt fine on my way up but cleaning on the way down I grabbed the flake and it pulled loose. Couldnt dislodge it completely but definitely not solid any more. No chalk to mark it with an X so watch out!

There's another big hold in a similar spot so shouldn't be an issue
By Corey Allard
May 18, 2017

Climbed this route yesterday on 5.18.17 - The right quick clip is broken and the gate doesn't close properly. Probably not safe to lower off.

Would be happy to replace but I'm not confident changing out this kind of gear, unless someone wants to show me how.

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