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Tower One

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armed and Hammered S 
Bollocks S 
Brainless Conformants S 
Cause for Alarm S 
Cheap Thrills T 
Dark Star T 
Heathens S 
Hell is for Children S 
Holy Hell it's Hot S 
Little Hellion S 
Medussa S 
Pandora S 
Rezin Scraper S 
Shelter from the Storm S 
What the Hell T 
Whiskey Bent & Hellgate Bound S 

Tower One Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,500'
Location: 40.59015, -111.64812 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,420
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 12, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Tower One is the southeast most tower of the three main towers. It is usually the first wall one encounters during the approach to Main Hellgate.

    Mugs Stump and friends were the first to really start exploring this area. A high concentration of good climbing in a small area awaits the climber here. Bring gear to supplement the bolt placements as most of the Tower One climbing remains quite trad in character. You'll like it!

    Getting There 

    As for Main Hellgate. Stick to the trail. This will be the first tower low and east that one encounters. Plan on about a 15 minute approach time. Avoid trespassing on private property.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 1.0 miles from here

    16 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Tower One

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tower One:
    Heathens   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Little Hellion   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
    Bollocks   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Brainless Conformants   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 155'   
    Cheap Thrills   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Medussa   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Shelter from the Storm   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches   
    Pandora   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tower One

    Featured Route For Tower One
    Rock Climbing Photo: Medussa at Hellgate.  Looks like hell but its a fu...

    Medussa 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Tower One
    One of the best sport routes in Little Cottonwood. Starts out slabby, turns vertical and then steepens for the steepest .11 climbing I've seen anywhere....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Photos of Tower One Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pandora

    Comments on Tower One Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Nubbins80
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 7, 2008
    Does anyone have info on the route just right of Medussa that travels up through the steepest part of the cave?

    By Allen Briggs
    Jun 18, 2015
    Does anyone have the info on the two moderate routes just to the right of Hell is for Children? This section of wall now has 3 routes. The middle route was 8 bolts and felt about 5.6. I didn't try the right most route but it looked similar. They both have dark grey hangers and are much easier to spot than HIFC. Fun moderate additions to Hellgate.
    By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
    Sep 12, 2017
    The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance will be doing some fixed anchor replacement over the next two weeks at Hellgate - to start at Tower One tonight/tomorrow. Please be patient with our fixed lines and temporarily closed routes. If you want to help with this effort- consider donating to the SLCA to help purchase stainless steel hardware. You can donate here:

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