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Tow Away Zone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Lowe, Jon Marsh 1968
Page Views: 2,525
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 6, 2003

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Tow Away Zone


This climb starts just to the left of Just Another Pretty Face 5.10c. Lieback and face climb to the first and only bolt. It is a little spicy getting there, so place your small stuff in the entrance crack. Clip the bolt and jam the moderate crack (#1-2 Camalots) to the anchor on JAPF.


TCUs and hand size cams...

Photos of Tow Away Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dragan giving it to Towaway Zone
Dragan giving it to Towaway Zone
Rock Climbing Photo: Tow Away Zone 5.10a
Tow Away Zone 5.10a

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 30, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Another great route on this east face. Some nice liebacking (not mandatory as one of my partners just face-climbed to the bolt), followed by either steep face climbing or wide stemming, followed by a nice sew-it-up hand crack. The traverse to the anchors will have your second cursing at you, if they don't like runout. But it is very easy.
By rpc
May 9, 2006

Another belay option (standard bolts can be crowded as they're used by multiple lines) is to make a long & runout slab run (right and up) to the slung 4-foot horn atop Funky Bolt. No pro but the slab is low 5th class. Not sure if single rope would work for rapping off here though.
By Jello
Jun 20, 2007

I made the first ascent of this route in 1968, with Jon Marsh, without the bolt.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jun 20, 2007

Pretty cool, Jeff! Bet it was a pretty different place back then.

By Joseph Kolnik
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a chore. Bring the small stuff if you are going to get this one without a stick clip. Above the small roof lies one of the finest hand size cracks in the area.
By Brice W
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The stances were a little tenuous, but I got a good camalot and alien in before the bolt, so it didn't feel too spicy. Great route!
By mkm
From: Boise, ID
Nov 5, 2008

Agreed. Very good route with a somewhat tricky start. Above the bolt is a great moderate handcrack. Extra # 1,2 camalots helpful.

If you want to avoid the traverse to anchors, continue climbing up the crack to chains just left of the crack at about 110-115'. This is the best option, but you MUST have two ropes or a 70m cord to get down..
By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

There was chains at the top and we made it back down fine w/ a 60m... it's right at 1oo ft. tall.
By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
Jul 24, 2010

i got a good offset in one of the pods down low, enjoy the splitter up top!
By TofuTodd Eddie
From: Salt Lake
Jul 2, 2011

I tried left after the bolt and was shut down. Gear to the right looked bad. Got a couple c3s in below the bolt. IMHO this route is not for the new 10a climber, the lieback/slab moves were awkward for me ESP plugging gear. but I'm not good on granite, feel I have to add a grade to most. The crack above looks amazing, maybe next time!
By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Sep 12, 2011

A high friction-y stance with my left hand in the under cling allowed me to reach for the chalked up jug above the roof with my right hand. A few decent pinches for the left hand and more high feet made pulling the roof pretty simple. Great hand and foot jamming up the crack, with some face features along the way. Fun route!
By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
May 27, 2014

Heads up everybody. The bolt is a tiny bit loose. It looked like it was out a bit when I clipped it, so I pushed it back in. I looked around and there aren't any other gear placements available in the vicinity, so I couldn't back it up. Two big moves past the bolt and there is solid gear. At any rate, I wouldn't recommend falling on the bolt. If you're not a solid 5.10 climber on granite, you maybe shouldn't climb this route. At least not until the bolt has been replaced.
By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Jul 26, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Crap, I read the bolt situation now, it didn't seem that way when I did it. Maybe I didn't look close enough. I did note it was a pin driven bolt. The start sequence seems harder than 10a. But tiny cams can protect before and after the bolt. After the start sequence it goes down to 5.8. The new rap anchors directly on the route work with two 60m, just.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
May 30, 2017

This is a four star 5.7 handcrack with an interesting and funky 10a boulder problem in the first 20 feet. A beautiful forested belay spot too, cool and shady on a hot afternoon.

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