Climbs the micro-thin vertical slab past two bolts and a pin, moving eventually left to the first belay station on Country Club Crack
Located on the Castle Rock's east face's far left side, right and around the corner from Country Club Crack's
first pitch. Climbs the micro-thin vertical slab past two bolts and a pin, moving eventually left to the first belay station on Country Club Crack
By j wharton
Nov 13, 2016
This is an awesome little route deserving of more attention. Similar in style, albeit much harder, to the "first" pitch of CCC.
I'm not sure if it has lost holds since the FFA, but it's definitely 5.13 in its current state. I'd call the opening boulder V8 or V9. It involves a tricky stab to a mono and then a creative gaston/thumb catch. This sequence will be very hard for the short.
The upper half of the pitch consists of fun 5.12 finger crack climbing. Bring a single set to 0.75 and a few small wires for the crack portion. Move right (not left) at the top of the crack to an anchor on Radio Armada.
It would be easy to work the opening boulder problem on toprope from the anchor atop "pitch one" of CCC with a few directionals.