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Begin 10 feet left of Mrs. Hen Places a Peck
in a right-facing dihedral just left of the bolt line on the prow. The start of the route is below a three-tiered overhang, and the right-facing dihedral leads to the left side of the overhang.
Start in the right-facing dihedral with the crux between the second and third bolts. This has stemming and face climbing.
Where the dihedral meets the overhang, step across to the face right above the overhang and follow several bolts to the chains.
7 bolts, the first bolts are to the right on the prow and reachy to clip while in the dihedral.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Nov 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clipping the first bolt can be a bit insecure with a nasty landing area below. Sans stick-clip, a comforting option is ascend to the right, make the clip, then go across to the normal route left of the bolt line.