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Full Metal Hootgat T 
Have You Seen It? S 
I'm Your Huckleberry S 
In Water There Is Life S 
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 
Mystery of the Desert T 
No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 
Oops, I Sharted T 
Seeing is Believing T 
Tiny But Exciting S 
Tour Buses Welcome S 

Tour Buses Welcome 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 320', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, et al.
Page Views: 2,386
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Josh and Aminda climbing pitch 2.

Description 

This is a fun bolted line to the right of Mystery of the Desert. The climbing is mostly slab and a few tricky stemming face moves.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 70')- Easy slab climbing straight up the bolts to the two bolt anchor. The crux is just after the first bolt.

Pitch 2 (5.10a, 80')- Follow the bolt line up and right from the anchor. The crux involves interesting face and stem moves to negotiate an angled bulge. Staying low when traversing to this bulge helps, as well as utilizing small holds to the right of the bulge. Continue up and left to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10a/b, 90') - climb up and right following more bolts. Enter a short oval dish-shaped feature and figure out the clever stemming moves. Exit this feature and stay right of the bolt line as you climb to another two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.6R, 85') - follow the jagged arete to up and slightly left to a tree at the summit. You will find a two bolt anchor directly underneath it. The climbing is easy but protection is a bit scarce in the beginning of the pitch.

Descend by rapping the route.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from

toofasttopos.com/free/

Location 

Start on bolts approx 5' right of Mystery of the Desert.

Protection 

All bolts except for the final pitch. A small rack of cams and a single set of stoppers is easily sufficient to protect the final pitch.


Photos of Tour Buses Welcome Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff M. on 2nd pitch. Very nice position!
Jeff M. on 2nd pitch. Very nice position!
Rock Climbing Photo: P1. This route needs a name!
BETA PHOTO: P1. This route needs a name!
Rock Climbing Photo: Route starts just right of this trunk.
BETA PHOTO: Route starts just right of this trunk.
Rock Climbing Photo: p1
p1

Comments on Tour Buses Welcome Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 16, 2016
By dolemike
Oct 11, 2009

Did the 1st two pitches after climbing mystery of the desert. Thought the first was a little easier than 5.9 and found the second to be a bit of a sandbag at 10a. The second pitch, though fairly short, is pretty stellar.
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Feb 18, 2010

A very worthwhile route! 2nd pitch is certainly no easier than 10a. The 3rd is significantly harder and can be linked with the 4th for an excellent 3 pitch outing. Descent is straight down the route with a single 60 meter rope.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Nov 16, 2010

Is this the route that has the corner on the 3rd pitch? I can't figure out which one that is, from these route descriptions. I think the route was called 'Tour busses welcome"?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 19, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Crux on the third pitch is tricky tricky..pretty solid 10 at least and could be made much harder if you do it wrong like I did lol

Probably hasn't seen too much traffic so that little crunching noise you hear sometimes as you're smearing down on the footholds adds to the fun..
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun bolted multi-pitch sport for the first three pitches. Third pitch crux seemed tricky, but it could have been the two jackets I was wearing - brr!
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is called "Tour Buses Welcome" and the FA is Scott Ayers.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 8, 2013

And ... updated.
By matt j hartman
From: Leavenworth WA
Feb 21, 2015

I thought this was a good and well protected route. Second pitch felt hard for 10a and is awesome. P3 is mid road 5.10 and also awesome. Topped out via 5.6 pitch to another bolted anchor and then to the summit via a 5.8 mixed pitch that was good. Worth topping out.
By Julian901
Dec 15, 2016

The first pitch goes at 5.9 in modern rating convention. There is a move or two at the bottom that is in the 5.10 range though. The second pitch is a massive sandbag at 5.10a even as an old school route in my opinion. Everything after the first 10-15 feet of pitch two is 5.10+ or harder in modern rating. I'm quite sure I did it right, stayed low below the bulge as I moved far right going over it. Pulling up over/around the bulge is the hardest 5.10a move I have ever come across! Great right hand to the far right, very high left foot to the arete (ok at best) and then lockoff your right arm and reach super high with your left to a small sharp crimp (must be at least 6 foot to reach), then grab absolute tiny slab holds as you shift your weight left onto your foot for awful hand holds for the grade. I think the next clip was on some of the sketchiest slab crimps I've ever made. The position was so delicate I decided to grab my draw to clip the rope. I didn't feel like falling down 5 feet of slap and another 5 feet over a small roof while my face slams into the lip of the bulge. Ugh. I vaguely remember the clipping stance being better a little higher but I didn't know that at the time. That said climbing up to the bulge has some fun *** moves but finding the folds and moves is abstract for sure. I would rate pulling over the bulge 5.11- to 5.11+ modern rating depending on your height. From there it is slab climbing on what I would call well textured rock, not so much 'holds' (5.10+). After my second watched me climb over the bulge he refused to even try the second pitch and the third pitch looked like more of the same but steeper so I wasn't disappointed to retreat.

Good luck.


Rock Climbing Photo: Bulge moves
Bulge moves
By Paul Zander
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 15, 2016

By jbak
Dec 16, 2016

"The modern convention"...hahaha