REI Community
search
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cat from Outer Space S,TR 
Crack'n the Code T 
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 
Freedom Fighter S 
Frogs in Space T,S 
Gotta Keep Dancin T 
Jeopardy T 
Laus Deo S 
LGK T 
Lord of the Dance T 
Pinhead T,S 
Raindown S,TR 
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 
Springboard T 
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 
Touching the sky S 
Undercover T 
Zig Zag T 

Touching the sky 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: B Middleton, D. Kloke 2002
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Kemper Brightman on Sep 30, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another fantastic sport route that deserves WAY more attention than it gets. Although less sustained than its neighbor, Freedom Fighter, Touching the Sky feels more exposed. This route can be broken into two pitches, or stitched into one 110' pitch for the full experience.

From the top of snag buttress, look for twin bolt lines leading up the slab. Touching the Sky takes the right bolt line, navigating gritty crimps up to a roof. Pull the roof on JUGS to reach the belay bolts above. From these bolts move directly left to the arete, making an airy step around to the left side. Cruise up the exposed arete and make a few tricky moves before reaching the three bolt anchor below the headwall. Three Raps get you back down to the ground.

Protection 

12 bolts to bolted anchors. (book says pro to 1", but the climb never felt run-out without it)

A 60m rope successfully got us down to the top of snag buttress in one rap. Certainly tie knots if you plan on doing this...or use a 70!


Comments on Touching the sky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Firenze
May 31, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a great route, with clean rock, a sweet juggy roof, well-spaced bolts, and fantastic exposure.

The start belay is best placed at the chains at the top of "Sunshine on a Dark Day," which seem to be newer than the latest guide book version. We linked both sport pitches with a 60m; you'll want 3-5 alpines to minimize rope drag and AT LEAST 12 draws total (I scavenged backwards a couple times). The guide book lists Pro to 1" for the climb; this refers only to the "optional" third pitch, which is an interesting change of pace (less air between your legs, more varied features). If climbing the third pitch, there are two bolts at the top left corner of the Headwall face and chains above.

If rappelling down, aim for the first belay ledge of Freedom Fighter instead of the chains before the arete, as it's much easier to get to the start belay chains from there (and MUCH easier to reach the top of Snag Buttress). This ledge is about 20 feet to the left of the P1 chains and maybe 10 feet down. A 70m would probably get you to the bottom from the top of P2.

Great climb, planning on hitting it again!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About