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Unknown Pleasures
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Unknown Pleasures S 

Touch of Grey 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Bleyl
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 22, 2012  with updates from Leify Guy

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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About a third of the way up. Photo by Kip Henrie.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A fine line on less-than-fine rock for part of the way, with stellar stone from about halfway on.

The line starts by curving to the left, apparently to avoid even poorer rock. At the third bolt the line heads more or less straight up for several bolts, but eventually trends back to the right. The whole line is a shallow C-shape.

There is a good rest on the route but you'll have to be willing to find it. Otherwise, the sections before and after the rest are fairly sustained, with only a few shake-outs here and there.

And just when you think you've got it made...the ending section appears. As the Ruckmans say "A little harder if you're shorter."

Note that since this description was originally entered this line may have become harder. See the comments.


After arriving at the base of Unknown Pleasures continue along a trail to the right. Round the outside corner at the right side of the first east-facing wall and head up hill a bit.

The next east-facing wall has a ledge at its base, up to which you'll need to scramble.

A Touch of Grey is the left-most route on this wall. There is a 2-chain belay anchor. This route starts just to the left of the belay anchor.


12 bolts, chain anchors.

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By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Aug 23, 2012

This a long route with one very big rest then another smaller but useful rest just before the last 2 bolt crux section. Before you get there there is a very thin section that will wake you up - it has very small hand holds but with good feet and requires good balance.

The upper crux is just plain intense - you just feel stretched out on it, reaching for holds and stretching the feet. The reward is some awesome jugs to the chains. Very long and exposed in a setting that is superb.
By Leify Guy
Aug 5, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I can't believe nobody has commented on the altered nature of this route, due to a broken hold, the crux is now after what used to be the crux and the route feels significantly harder... Clipping the last bolt is now stupid hard, I even tried skipping it once to get the send and still ended up going for a ride.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 7, 2015

Leif, it could have easily broken this year. AF isn't known for the most awesome rock, so it's possible it's just way more difficult now.
By Lotapowder
From: Sandy
Apr 30, 2016

Hey Leify Guy,
Browsing MP tonight I saw your post and thought I would chime in. Anyway, I was on the route the summer of 2014 and broke said hold off. I was not able to do the "new" move even off the dog and you are right about clipping the bolt.(VERY difficult) It would be interesting for someone stronger than I to go up there and let people know how hard it is now. Sorry:-(
By climbslc
From: SLC, UT
Oct 30, 2016

Sounds like that last bolt needs to be moved -- Its my route so I reserve the right to alter it ;)

I'd be happy to go up and do that w/ someone who wants to help decide where the best new spot is (PM me if interested).
By Leify Guy
Feb 16, 2017
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I've since sent the route, I wouldn't be the best judge of bolt placement since I just opted to make the hard moves and then clip the bolt at my ankles, however, I do think the grade to be closer to 5.12c now, maybe b/c, but I'll climb it again this spring to confirm...

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