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Unsorted Routes:

Tottering into Antiquity 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Thompson & Johnny Musso, 2002
Page Views: 471
Submitted By: Jason Young on May 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Description 

This route really has two variations, but they are considered different routes using the same bolts. The harder variation goes straight up on thin holds and is rated at solid 5.12. The route associated with the name "Tottering into Antiquity" goes right at the sixth bolt and attempts to maintain a contrived line that allows you to clip the bolts, but it does NOT go into the route "Chip Off the Block". These efforts alone afford the 5.10 rating. The only saving grace for this route is that the rock quality is high. You might as well just do "Chip Off the Block" though. The 5.12 variation looks HARD.

Location 

The bolt line located to the right of "Fire It Up" and to the left of "Chip Off the Block".

Protection 

Eight bolts to chain anchors.


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By slim
Administrator
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The new Bob D. guidebook calls this a 3 star 11a, but I wouldn't agree. It is quite a bit easier and 1 to 2 stars.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 30, 2012

I agree. It looked great from the ground. Perhaps the lack of chalk up high should have clued me in. I've noticed way too many discrepancies and omissions in the Bob D. guide. Next time I won't let all the pretty pictures be the sole basis for buying a guidebook.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Oct 12, 2015

FA: Rick Thompson & Johnny Musso, 2002.
By Parker Wrozek
Mar 12, 2017

This is a very confusing route. I am not sure what you consider on versus off at bolt 6 and 7. We tried going straight up the bolt line but couldn't pull the moves up to clip 8.

Ultimately I moved right and used the crack and face to get under the area between this and "Chip Off The Block" and going up to the jug. If you did fall, it would be pretty big with a bit of swing but should be clean. The clips were long from here though.

Were we on route? Probably not. It is really fun though with some good headiness.

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