|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Rick Thompson & Johnny Musso, 2002|
|Submitted By:||Jason Young on May 29, 2012|
|Comments on Tottering into Antiquity||Add Comment|
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May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|The new Bob D. guidebook calls this a 3 star 11a, but I wouldn't agree. It is quite a bit easier and 1 to 2 stars.|
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 30, 2012
|I agree. It looked great from the ground. Perhaps the lack of chalk up high should have clued me in. I've noticed way too many discrepancies and omissions in the Bob D. guide. Next time I won't let all the pretty pictures be the sole basis for buying a guidebook.|
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Oct 12, 2015
|FA: Rick Thompson & Johnny Musso, 2002.|
By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Mar 12, 2017
This is a very confusing route. I am not sure what you consider on versus off at bolt 6 and 7. We tried going straight up the bolt line but couldn't pull the moves up to clip 8.
Ultimately I moved right and used the crack and face to get under the area between this and "Chip Off The Block" and going up to the jug. If you did fall, it would be pretty big with a bit of swing but should be clean. The clips were long from here though.
Were we on route? Probably not. It is really fun though with some good headiness.