REI Community
The Diamond
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Auntie M T 
Festoon T 
Hatari  T 
Psycho Bitch S 
Ruby Shoes T 
Secret Lover T 
Tik Tok T 
Toto T 
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 
True Grit T 
Trusting Aborigines  S 
Unknown T 

Toto to the Pinnacle link up 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1800', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: who knows
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: Griswald on Aug 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Thrasher on the extension

Toto to the Pinnacle Link 

Part 1-To start this classic link-up, first climb Toto. My suggestion if it’s not wet is to simul climb all the way to the base of the 5.9 dihedral, apx 120 meters. Climb the 5.9 corner, then for the next pitch go out right and clip that funny bolt (this variation is not in the guidebook) this pitch is a fast way to go. Next, climb the choss to the top of Toto. Next, climb the right side of the ridge until you find your self at the top of the Green Gully.

Part 2-Climb the first pitch of Rebecca’s Roof to the base of My Pie (5.9). (see photo) Climb the left side of My Pie (5.10b Crux) so you can easily climb to the top of the formation without out massive rope drag.

Part 3-Walk along the ridge, many variations are possible. Once you are at the pinnacle many variations are possible. The classic 3 or 4 pitch climb is on the ridge somewhat near the couloir.

Part 4-I think the best way to get off this climb is to rappel one time and walk out to the Independence Mine parking. You can also rappel the pinnacle and walk back to the base of Toto.

Extension: If you are making good time try adding a bunch of ridge pitches by continuing on the ridge and following it till you get to the Fairangel Gap (5.9). This extension is know as the M.T.C. Memorial Traverse. (FA Aaron Thrasher and Ben Chriswell)

Photos of Toto to the Pinnacle link up Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My Pie
My Pie
Rock Climbing Photo: Toto to the Pinnacle and the extension
BETA PHOTO: Toto to the Pinnacle and the extension
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the first 8 or so pitches.
BETA PHOTO: View of the first 8 or so pitches.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Rebecca’s roof
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Rebecca’s roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost souls on the Pinnacle
Lost souls on the Pinnacle

Comments on Toto to the Pinnacle link up Add Comment
Show which comments
By The Shocker
Aug 25, 2015

Yep. Don't come down the north gulley in late summer. Sand and blocks. East face has rap anchors. Old ones. East face climbing is easier on the right side. There are a few different routes up it. The full traverse to the Fairangel gap is PROUD. What a classic line.
By Griswald
Sep 16, 2016

Now that a few people have done this climb should the length or commitment grade be changed? I was thinking grade 4 because if you add the extension it might be in the grade 5 area.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Sep 17, 2016

Seems accurate to me.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
From: Anchorage
Sep 19, 2016

Length might be closer to 2000ft. although a lot of that is the ridge section which is pretty easy 5th and 4th class. Grade IV seems just about right...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About