REI Community
Road Cut, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack A No Go T 
Curvy Crack T 
Easy Street S 
Escargot T,S 
Herring Breath T 
Hit and Run S 
Itchy and Scratchy S 
Penguin Lust S 
Spaceman Spiff S 
Totem Pole S 
Transmogrifier S 

Totem Pole 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jonny Woodword
Season: Spring, Summer, and Fall
Page Views: 2,026
Submitted By: urs on Jul 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Col Mustard cruising Totem Pile (5.11b) on a not s...

  • 2014 nesting closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route was for many years a very scary lead with huge runouts and loose terrain until someone (?) cleaned it up and bolted it. Now its a very enjoyable route with a mixture of crimps, slopers, pockets and knobs. The route ascends the obvious arete just left of Transmogrifier. With the route cleaned up and bolted it is starting to see alot of traffic and it is a good warm-up before hopping on Spaceman Spiff or some of the other hard routes at Roadcut.


    The route is just to the left of Transmogrifier on the obvious arete.


    The protection is all bolts with a two bolted rap anchor on the top. The route requires a 60m rope or longer to get down.

    Photos of Totem Pole Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: RIP Totem Pile
    RIP Totem Pile

    Comments on Totem Pole Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dra-go-nee
    Aug 26, 2008
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I think if Hit and Run is an 11b, then this one deffinately scores 11b. A little bit harder and more committing than Hit and Run and a huge step up from escargot.
    By Rick D
    From: Reno, NV
    May 1, 2009
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    10 bolts plus one old piton, so eleven clips total. Full sixty meter rope.
    By Lurker
    From: Westwood
    Mar 13, 2012

    Rumor has it that a decent chunk of this route fell off last winter, and is now a few grades harder....guess that's what you get at a roadcut.
    By Colonel Mustard
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Oct 29, 2013
    rating: 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a

    The piton was replaced by a bolt, only some twisted iron remains. Two fixed draws. Glad it was retroed, since it's an awesome sport line.
    By skinny legs and all
    From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
    Jan 12, 2014

    Johnny Woodward bolted this line ground up and onsight.
    By John Jackson
    Jan 13, 2014

    Johnny Woodward led this route ground up, reported to be without bolts, for the first ascent. He was strongly opposed to adding bolts to this, runout, route. Fortunately/unfortunately the only place where it was possible to get some pro in, sketchy and way up the route, fell off (and became a safer route). Subsequently the whole route was retro bolted and renamed from Totem Pile to Totem Pole.
    By slk
    From: Reno, NV
    Feb 15, 2015

    R.I.P Totem pole...
    By melonhead
    Jan 11, 2016

    Two pins and gear on the FA. Nature has proven that the original name was more appropriate.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About