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Totem Pole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer
Page Views: 602
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Dec 9, 2006

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Emily Craft climbing the Totem Pole

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very cool-looking feature, but unfortunately the climbing is only average quality. The rock is reminiscent of that found on crags by the water (interesting looking tufas and slippery). The crux comes at about 60 feet up and is protected by an expansion bolt. Don't fall there! Once past the crux at the top of the pillar, there is another clip before the anchor.

Location 

Totem Pole is the first route you encounter on the hike to Eagle Wall. It's a pillar that is attached to the main wall at about fifty feet up.

Protection 

Bolts and slings. About twelve clips. There's a rappel anchor at the top. There's an expansion bolt at the crux. All the other bolts are glue-ins.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2007

My notes indicate to bring at least 12 draws as the route as it extendeds beyond the totem pole to the anchors. I believe that the FA was Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer in 12/98.

Even with the slick rock that Dave described, I'd say it's a must do if you're in the area. The formation is cool.

~Susan
By Clayton Rardon
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 28, 2007

when I was there in 12/2007 the route was very polished and the slings all needed to be replaced, as do the anchors. I don't think I'd recommend the line to anyone until then. But in all a neat route.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Feb 9, 2014

All of the slings, the bolt, and the anchor have been chopped from this route.

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