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Total X 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 3,461
Submitted By: triznuty on May 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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BETA PHOTO: Total X on right Imperial on left


This route is a must do! Not a 100% sure on the rating, but it's steep with trad to start and has a sporty finish. Start directly below the first bolt in the corner. The names a little deceiving (*unless you don't bring gear*). Because the beginning protects fine with a little pro.


Furthest route to the left. Look up way high for the first bolt. It's about 25-30ft up there.


A couple cams or nuts and 3 bolts, plus 2xchain anchor.
(I used #0.75 and a #1 Camalot).

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By Derek Bailey
From: murray, ut
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route was a lot of fun. From the base it looks like jug town, but once you get up on it, it's way steeper than it looks, and all those massive, perky jugs turn into droopy, saggy slopers. it surprised me how tough this one turned out to be.
By notmyname
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 29, 2013

No longer a 2 bolt anchor and the one remaining is a POS loose with stacked washers. I don't have a drill, but if you do this excellent route needs new anchors desperately. John Doe has pretty crappy chain on it as well and could use an upgrade too.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I threw in a #.5 and #.75 before getting to the first bolt. Pretty easy climbing up to that point. What makes this climb feel hard is that, like most climbs in Ferguson, the slopers are pretty slick with bad feet in a couple of spots. Great jug below the 3rd bolt though!! btw I headed right after the 3rd bolt because the anchor consists of one bolt w/o a hanger, and the other bolt has a small bit of rusty chain attached to it w/ a ton of washers. Definitely needs a new anchor. I used the anchor on John Doe #2 to get down (also would be cool if that anchor were replaced).
By Gub
Jul 25, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I really like this route. A bit short, but it's good and pumpy. Some really great jugs, with some not-so-great feet. I'm verifying Skat's comment that the true anchor for this route is damaged and missing a chain (only one of the bolts has a chain.) I too used the anchor for John Doe #2, which can be safely reached by using a positive side bar above and to the right of the original anchors. By placing a couple small pieces of pro at the bottom, this becomes a perfectly safe climb. Without them, the start could be a little sketchy. Enjoy!
By Eli Peterson
From: Orem
Jul 25, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbed this route with no trad gear. Not to bad. Anchor is one bolt with chains and one screw that is sticking out. The screw can pretty easily be wrapped with a short amount of webbing, I would have left some there but I left all my webbing in the car
By bus driver
Jul 27, 2015

We left some red super tape and a biner on that stud last week. Too bad someone already ganked it. Should be up there to fix the anchor this week.

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