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Total Lack of Jump 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, Chipped, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Start off a large boulder on a nice crimp sidepull. From here make long reaches between chipped pockets, to obtain a resting jug and the third bolt. From here the route stays sustained on thin holds to the anchors.

While this route offers good climbing, the entire bottom is almost all manufactured.


Towards the middle of mainwall. Three routes to the right of Mighty Morphin. Between Crybaby and The Thin Thin.


5? Bolts to Anchors. Stickclip

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By Pablo-Roberts
From: Prescott, Arizona
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This comment goes for alot of routes at Jacks actually, this route on here gets 2 starts, but its one of the coolest dyno sport climbs I've done. Three consecutive big deadpoints/lunges to good then worsening holds. The top stays on you as well. I thought it would be over after the dynos and fell on the top section.

Beware of MP stars...this thing is well worth a try or two.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pablo, don't get me wrong this route is pretty fun, but the dynos are just long moves and not actual dynos, and the climb is short. Let's be real here. It's two stars, maybe three at a stretch.

Still TOTALLY worth doing.
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Mar 8, 2016

While I agree that this climb is totally worth doing and is comparable to many other climbs on Main Wall, there is no way it is anywhere close to four stars. I can only think of one heavily manufactured (but barely noticeable) sport climb in the US that I would give four stars to. This thing is so blatantly and heavily manufactured that although the climbing is fun it is only one star from me. That is why Jack's canyon classics like Haul of Flame and Unpopular Mechanics only get two stars from me.

If you liked this route, check out Wild Breed on Swiss Wall.

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