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Rubicon Formation
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Amphetamine Reptile T 
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Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) T 
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Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: (TR) Roger Whitehead & Chris French 1986, FL: Lavon Weighall & Chuck Davis, October 1988
Page Views: 654
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 23, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Rubicon Formation

Description 

This steep face climb requires body tension and momentum to make it past the first three bolts to the horizontal crack which spans the Rubicon formation. Fortunately, the small protruding crystals and features used for smearing and hand / foot holds are firmly embedded in the matrix. Above the horizontal crack the difficulty eases and three more bolts protect moves to a rounded arete before a small slanting ledge is reached below the summit. A fist sized crack at the bottom of the ledge can be used to make an anchor with cams. Easy climbing to the top of the formation is necessary to access the chain anchor used to rappel off.

Protection 

Quickdraws for six bolts. Fist sized cams are necessary for an anchor in a crack at the bottom of a small slanting ledge about 10' below the summit of the Rubicon formation.


Photos of Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving past the second bolt on the sustained 5.11 ...
Moving past the second bolt on the sustained 5.11 ...

Comments on Total Generic Package (aka Mr. Swing) Add Comment
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By Josh Beck
Mar 26, 2003

The bolts on this route looked older. Didn't climb the route but went and gave it a decent looking over, probably candidates for replacement.
By Vernon Stiefel
Mar 26, 2003

The bolts are 3/8" but the homemade hangers are rusty. While replacing the bolts may be desirable, I don't think it's crucial to make the route "safe."

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