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Total Eclipse 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Achey
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Jan 16, 2012

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Easy (5.9ish) climbing up the steep face leads to a V4 boulder problem through the awesome body-length roof. Some Cliffhanger-like beta got me through the roof and had me smiling at the chains. Fun route!


On the far right of the Pup Tent, look up for the huge roof right before the trail cuts downhill along the cliff.


7 bolts; chain anchor

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By grand junction mike
Mar 14, 2014

In an effort to make this process more efficient, I'm adding two diagrams, one looking up at the roof from the belayer's point of view and the other looking right at the wall immediately above the roof. "Hold 1" is the same hold in both images.

So, I messed around with all different combinations of hand placement on the three holds and one crimp just above the roof but couldn't figure out anything that could get me to the next hold which I assume was about 1.5 feet above the crimp immediately to the left of the crack shown in the drawing.


Rock Climbing Photo: See the text description.
See the text description.

Rock Climbing Photo: See the text.
See the text.
By Alvaro Arnal
From: Aspen, CO
Mar 14, 2014


Hi, Grand Junction Mike. When you are matched on "hold two", try throwing your left heel up on "hold three", going to the crimp with your right hand and then crank off that heel hook to reach a good hold with your left hand and easier climbing above. It's been a while since I've done the route, but I do specifically remember that heel hook beta, because I remember thinking how crazy it was that I was heel hooking on a hold that's higher than my hands. This is a great route; get it done!
By J Achey
Mar 15, 2014

Mike, I remember struggling with this thing until I found a hidden edge out on the arete to the right, gained from "#2," I think. If that's not the "crimp" in your diagrams, see if it helps.

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