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Total Eclipse of the Shart 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Evan Wisheropp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Mar 25, 2017

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Traversing the flare

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This is a very unique route. Can I give it four stars?? Start in a dihedral hidden behind the pillar and climb up an ever changing crack system. Those looking for IC style splitters should continue on, the crack is ever changing and it is impossible to get a "flow" going. Awesome! After a small roof a downward flaring chimney comes into reach on your right, the route traverses through this flaring chimney passing three bolts and finishes with ten feet of moderate offwidth out on the other side. Those who go ripping out the bottom of the crack are affectionately referred to as "The Shart"

You'll need a 70m rope to lower off, otherwise you can rap with a 60m if you belay from the top. You can prevent any rope drag and have your rope running straight on the traverse by extending your clips on the traverse bolts appropriately; 48", 24", 12", then 3". Clip the bolt before the anchors super short (3") to keep your rope running smoothly past the solid chockstone.

I've climbed this route about six times now and have loved it every time, it really makes you think. Enjoy!


.5 x2
.75 x3
#1 x2
#2 x1
#3 x2
#4 x1
#5 x2
many slings
one 3" draw

Photos of Total Eclipse of the Shart Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the flare traverse and continuing on with ...
Exiting the flare traverse and continuing on with ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama view down the route from the flaring tunn...
Panorama view down the route from the flaring tunn...

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By Evan Wisheropp
Mar 25, 2017

There is a bolt about 30 feet up that was placed to get past a patch of hollow rock that is 90% gone now, nevertheless, the crack in that section is hollow on gear and it also prevents your cams from getting sucked into the crack so after much discussion I left it. Feel free to pull/patch it or clip it. Have fun!

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