REI Community
Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
4-Star Arete TR 
Bee Sting T,TR 
Berserker T,TR 
Crucifriction TR 
Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 
Direct Start to Route 10 TR 
God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 
Gulf Stream T,TR 
High Roof Left T,TR 
High Roof Right T,TR 
Jet Stream T,TR 
Momentum T,TR 
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 16 T,TR 
Route 17 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 7 T,TR 
Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 
Songs of Love TR 
Tetherball T,TR 
Total Abstinence T,TR 

Total Abstinence 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: maybe Jamie Hamilton 12/18/09 (1st lead)?, TRed earlier
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: Wa3lt on Mar 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Climb the shallow dihedral 5 feet left of Sin-Wave with technical stemming. Up, slightly left, then back right and over a bulge (crux), then left and up an easier thin crack to the top.

Escaping leftwards out of the dihedral and up is a bit easier.


Route #12 in the photo.


TR [or lead with gear including small wires and rps]

Comments on Total Abstinence Add Comment
Show which comments
By jamie Hamilton
From: santa fe nm
Dec 19, 2009

I led this route yesterday(12/18/09). It is a pretty serious lead and I would give it a protection rating of R. There are a couple of places where you do not want to fall (you might slam into the boulder at the base of the corner) and one of them happens to be the crux. The gear mostly consists of small wires and some suspect rps behind chock stones in a seam. I wonder if this was the FA? It is hard for me to believe that nobody has led this before, since it seems such a classic line. However my partner who has climbed in Los Alamos for 3 decades seemed to think it was.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About