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Tortoise Scute 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: bolted by Alan Prehmus. FA?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,857
Submitted By: Alan Prehmus on Dec 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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BETA PHOTO: Tortoise Scute (P3).

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


P1. Cruise the low angle start past the traverse. Move up & right through the steeper bit (5.7). Head up to the slot where buckets await. Continue up through easy climbing to the belay (2 bolts).

P2. Head straight up the beautiful easy (5.5) tortoise shell slab to the belay at the overhang.

P3. Walk 60 feet West to the base of the third pitch. It works through the easiest part of the right side of the headwall (5.7-). While the start may appear steep, there are lots of positive features. Follow the bolts to the shared anchor with Yellow Dog Dingo.

It's also easy to walk to the base of the third pitch of Yellow Dog or Dance Hornpipes.

P1 & 2 can be combined with a 60 m rope.


Start 25 feet below and left of the entrance to the 3rd class access ledge.


Bolts: 10 for P1, 6 for P2, 8 for P3.

Photos of Tortoise Scute Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tortoise Scute (P1).
BETA PHOTO: Tortoise Scute (P1).
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian getting it done.
Brian getting it done.
Rock Climbing Photo: About halfway on P1.
About halfway on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin enjoys a nice March day to climb.
Kevin enjoys a nice March day to climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb ascends P1.
Deb ascends P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave starts up P3.
Dave starts up P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope hanging on the first pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Rope hanging on the first pitch.

Comments on Tortoise Scute Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 21, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a fun route and is not difficult for a 5.7. The route gets you high up on the side of the canyon. This would be a good route for new 5.7 leaders. It is safely bolted and not very sustained.
By Snow Lily
From: Golden
Feb 2, 2015

Very enjoyable route. The 3 pitches makes it fun and a confidence builder for folks getting back into climbing. Can't wait for more routes from Alan
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up. It's steeper than it looks.
Climbing up. It's steeper than it looks.
By Brad Gone
Apr 30, 2015

This is an excellent beginner multi-pitch route. Nice belay stations and generous bolting. Tops out with some nice height. Was tempted to solo it.

Thanks for putting it up!
By John Layko Torkleson
Jul 11, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Link the first two pitches. P2 is very easy. Nice, quick, morning multi-pitch.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 24, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I did the first pitch again, and it is very easy, barely 5.7. This is certainly a good route for new leaders.
By Carolyn Eustic
From: Denver
Dec 2, 2015

Great multi-pitch climb for beginners and beginner leads who have done a few others first.
By Matt Bentley
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great multipitch for beginners. The only detraction for me was the disconnect between pitches 2-3. The ledge is huge, so you don't have to worry much about safety, but it was a slight inconvenience to walk 20m left to the last pitch. That took it from 3 to 2 stars for me. Still, I thought the route was great and really enjoyed the diversity of the climb. Definitely worth checking out!

Also, if you have enough draws for it, I would highly recommend joining P1 and P2. P2 is quite short.
By ClimbandMine
Apr 25, 2017

Fun route. Saw a fixed piton - 1970s era. Probably means the FA was done a long time ago....

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