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Torre Piccola di Falzarego

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L to R R to L Alpha
Torre Piccola di Falzarego West Face, Via Normale. T 
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici T 
Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" T 

Torre Piccola di Falzarego Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Tim Wolfe, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristine Hoffman on Nov 29, 2014
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Solitary climber atop Kleiner Falzaregoturm

Description 

Two climbs with the same approach and about the same descent. Both classics and easily combined. Both south facing. The Comici on the Piccola is crowded but spectacular. They afford the perfect combo for moderate solos.

Getting There 

Park 1k east of Falzarego Pass at a small resturant. Hike up a path and head east along a road to old ruins from WW1. Hike up past the ruins to the base of the wall. About 30 minutes or more.

Climbing Season

For the Dolomites area.

Weather station 18.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Torre Piccola di Falzarego

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Torre Piccola di Falzarego:
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 450'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Torre Piccola di Falzarego

Featured Route For Torre Piccola di Falzarego
Rock Climbing Photo: Exposed traverse on pitch 2.

Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  Europe : Italy : ... : Torre Piccola di Falzarego
The route consists of 9 wonderful leads of exposed climbing on excellent rock. Pitch 1 is quite easy and is fairly short, ending on a decent belay stance after about only 50 feet. Pitch 2 traverses left (exposed but easy climbing) to a short dihedral which terminates atop a flake (same belay as Comici Route). Pitch 3 climbs diagonally right, trending towards a chimney/gully system. Pitch 4 follows the gully/chimney and involves a bit of fun stemming. Pitch 5 is the crux, and may have a move or 2...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Torre Piccola di Falzarego Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The easiest route on the formation is a nice YDS I...
BETA PHOTO: The easiest route on the formation is a nice YDS I...
Rock Climbing Photo: Near Falzarego Pass; start of the path to Falzareg...
Near Falzarego Pass; start of the path to Falzareg...
Rock Climbing Photo: A tied-off Sanduhr (Hourglass), and many are found...
A tied-off Sanduhr (Hourglass), and many are found...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grosser Falzaregoturm, West face.
BETA PHOTO: Grosser Falzaregoturm, West face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Falzarego Towers.
Falzarego Towers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Grosser Falzaregoturm (L), and Kleiner Falzaregotu...
Grosser Falzaregoturm (L), and Kleiner Falzaregotu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the Kleiner Falzaregoturm after an overnigh...
Here's the Kleiner Falzaregoturm after an overnigh...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lawn chairs at the resturant and parking lot for t...
Lawn chairs at the resturant and parking lot for t...

Comments on Torre Piccola di Falzarego Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 25, 2013
The Falzarego Towers are a popular destination during periods of colder weather and/or following early season light snowstorms. I climbed the via della Guida on the Kleiner Falzaregoturm under exactly those circumstances.
By Rodger Raubach
Oct 13, 2013
The ruins mentioned by RKM in the route description are of an Austrian "lazarret," or military hospital. The Fanis area was the scene of intense fighting between the Austrian Gebirgsjaeger troops and Italian Alpini. Military tunnels honeycomb the area.

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