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Torre Piccola di Falzarego
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Torre Piccola di Falzarego West Face, Via Normale. T 
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici T 
Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" T 

Torre Piccola di Falzarego West Face, Via Normale. 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 430'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Dry and warm.
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 12, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: An approximate sketch of the route; several great ...


The "Via Normale" isn't climbed as often as the South facing routes due to the longer and more arduous approach involved. It is often combined as a second route for those not enervated by the Comici or Via della Guide, since it begins just a few feet right of the descent chimney/gully.
The route involves 4 leads of excellent face climbing just right of the West arête, and has some outstanding and very steep slab climbing.


Viewed from the West, the large chasm separating the Grosser and Kleiner Falzarego Towers is the goal in the approach. A steep path diverges from the normal South face approach and is a scramble that may involve some lower 5th class climbing. For descent beta, see either of the previously described routes (Comici and Via della Guide).


Mostly fixed protection with many good thread opportunities. Bring long slings for threads, and a light rack.

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By Rodger Raubach
Oct 12, 2013

The rock quality on all Torre Piccola di Falzarego routes is uniformly excellent!

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