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Mount Torment
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Torment-Forbidden Traverse  T 

Torment-Forbidden Traverse  

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b Steep Snow [details]
Season: Summer
Page Views: 4,933
Submitted By: max huecksteadt on Aug 29, 2013

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On top of Torment looking toward Forbidden


Traverses the jagged skyline from Mt. Torment to Forbidden Peak. From the base of Torment, ascend the S. Ridge or the SE face (both loose 4th/low 5th class) to a prominent grassy ledge leading to a V-shaped notch climbers right. Packs can be left here as you summit and downclimb (or rap, though downclimbing is manageable) back, eventually following the grassy ledge to the notch.
From here, a wild overhanging rap on obvious slings takes one to the snow traverse on the North side [The entire traverse can be completed on rock, mitigating snow travel]. Traverse steep (50-55 deg)and crevassed (heavily in late season) snow/ice across rock ribs to the major rock ridge. From here, either a continuing snow traverse on the North or grassy 3rd class ledges on the South lead one to the beginning of the knife edge traverse.
This continues, past the 'sidewalk in the sky'- an aptly named flat section of ridge where exposed downclimbing (?) or a single rappel takes you to the obvious notch at the beginning of Forbidden Peak's West Ridge. This classic route is followed to the summit, via 4th/5.easy terrain to a 5.6 tower pitch, then further to the summit. Downclimbing and rappels take one back to the notch, where the standard Forbidden peak couloir/gullies can be descended (downclimbed/rapped) back to the glacier, and back to Boston Basin (don't cliff out on the waterfall slabs!- go skiers left (?)).


Mt. Torment is located on the far West side of Boston Basin, the peak with double summits. Descent from the route is really only feasible from Torment, Forbidden Peak's West Ridge notch, or the summit of Forbidden. Rapping the SE face of Torment has been done (but watch the bergschrund at the bottom!)


Alpine rack, a picket or two and or screw for the snow traverse or crevasse/bridge issues in late season.

Photos of Torment-Forbidden Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back at the first snow traverse (we went t...
Looking back at the first snow traverse (we went t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snowbridge antics since we crossed the rock rib to...
Snowbridge antics since we crossed the rock rib to...
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse seen from the top of Mt. Torment (For...
The traverse seen from the top of Mt. Torment (For...

Comments on Torment-Forbidden Traverse Add Comment
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By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Sep 18, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow PG13

Does anyone do this traverse by staying on or close to the ridge line? Didn't have much fun on all the loose scrambling after the first glacier traverse. Also, what are some quality routes on mt torment that provide better alternatives to the s ridge?
By max huecksteadt
From: Boise ID
Oct 10, 2013

We ended up dropping really low on the glacier to the most obvious notch (for us), but we ran into a guide who said the entire thing can be done solely on rock (can't vouch for the quality though!). Not sure if any 'quality' routes exist on Torment...I've been up the SE face twice, its mostly 4th-low 5th talus and scrambling but 1. depending on how you approach you have to risk the large 'V' shaped serac to gain the face (No problems, BUT I believe it collapsed and killed Craig Luebben), and 2. the initial climbing off the deck is no-gear 'easy 5th', aka sketchy but doable. Pick your poison...

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