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Torch & Twang 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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T&T climbs the central crack system, over the roof...


Within the context of limestone sport climbing, most will view this as a route to avoid. However, from a different perspective the line warrants a second look. If this pitch were on a desert tower, where sketchy detached blocks are part of the experience, the route would be a highly regarded classic. Unique, athletic movement in a wild position, puts this route among Shelf's most memorable. Unfortunately the spooky rock might leave a memory you'd rather forget.

Stick clip the first bolt, choose your path wisely, and tiptoe up the exfoliating slab. Good pockets and a bomber fingerlock pull over the first bulge onto an excellent panel of clean stone. Continue up sinker pockets to the looming roof. Make sure your belayer is clear of the rock fall zone, then lieback, handjam, and stem over the lip to a well deserved rest. An obvious 2-finger pocket and hard to reach edges breach the intimidating final panel.


Just left of the "Refrigerator", Climbing the opposite side of the Triage "Slice of Bread".


Stick clip mandatory. 7 bolts to 2 BA.

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