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Tora, Tora, Tora 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, 12/7/91
Page Views: 2,402
Submitted By: Ramin Jamshidi on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Josh Darnell at the crux on "Tora, Tora, Tora...


There are two options for the lower half of this route, both around 5.8. The cracks to the left are a little more awkward than the dihedral stemming over to the right. If you take the latter option, be sure to put a long sling on your last piece to minimize rope drag. Either way, now you're on a comfy ledge looking up at the intimidating, slightly overhanging face above. Thin hands and technical feet will make you earn your way to the anchors.


Bring some nuts and something like a #1 Camalot for the lower half; three draws for the upper half. 2 bolt lowering anchor.

Per Mark Roth: the left option has 6 bolts total, no gear is needed.

Photos of Tora, Tora, Tora Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost up....
Almost up....
Rock Climbing Photo: On the bolted start.
On the bolted start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tora, Tora, Tora bolted start.
Tora, Tora, Tora bolted start.

Comments on Tora, Tora, Tora Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 18, 2008

FA - December 7, 1991 (of course). This route was retrofitted in December 2007 to swap out the cold shuts and add 2 lower bolts. The route can be done without trad gear now.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Feb 1, 2010

Left option has 6 bolts total, no gear needed. Clipping hold for the last bolt is really creaky. Try not to break it....
From: chatfield lake ,co
Mar 14, 2010

Said hold is still really creaky. I pulled pretty hard on it.
By popes
From: Edgewater
Jan 20, 2013

I got on this yesterday, climbed to the big ledge, and looked up at the face. It looked real desperate, so I went a few feet left and climbed two bulges on good ledges which got me about halfway up the face. A few feet below the second to last bolt, I traversed right and climbed up the face for a few moves on good edges.
Climbing the route this way seems 11a (maybe lighter).
The route description implies you climb straight up the face from the ledge. but that looks to be a good bit harder than 11b/c.
Anyone know details on this?
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 8, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

First time I did this route was about 1995, 3 bolts only. Climbed again last week, hard to say if it needed the 3 extra bolts added or not, but it's a great route that see's little to no traffic.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
May 25, 2014

If it's any consolation, the bolt hangers are probably spinning more easily because the new hangers are thinner than the original cold shuts. I think I added washers when I upgraded the hangers a few years back, but the hangers could spin more easily in that configuration. The Rawl 5-piece bolts are designed in a way that the hanger or equipment attached can vibrate or move without compromising the bolt itself. If the bolts themselves actually appeared to move, then that's a different story.
By A. Bandos
Dec 22, 2015

Upper headwall is really enjoyable. The clipping hold for the fifth bolt is a little above the bolt. Be careful, because a fall here could put you on the ledge.
By two chains
From: Fucken Zion
Jun 6, 2016

Best 11a at the Table!!!! Go for it!!!

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