Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Toproping through Rap Rings - Gunks
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Dec 7, 2015
This past Saturday I ran into a situation where I was stuck at the top of a climb waiting to rappel, only to realize that the reason the rap anchor was occupied was that somebody was toproping through the rappel rings.

Where things got amusing is that I obviously hurt the toproper's feelings when I pointed out that you shouldn't toprope though rappel rings, and that it is really a dickish move to tie up a rappel anchor like that. He insisted that what he was doing is perfectly fine, and that we were the party in the wrong. Figuring that we better things to do than arguing with him, we packed up and headed off to climb something else.

But in case anybody knows him (see picture), please point him at the attached description of climbing etiquette. Maybe that will convince him that rappel rings are for rappelling, not for toproping.

Rock Climbing Photo: Top roper
Top roper


Rock Climbing Photo: Cliff-etiquette
Cliff-etiquette
Schalk
Joined Nov 11, 2010
15 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Is that fingers locks/cedar box? I've seen people TR through the rings there before.

Nice job posting the dudes picture! Haha..
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
439 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: urrr
Did you show him the page that you posted here? Sporting Under Armour. This is my shocked face :-o don'tchuffonme
Joined Jan 13, 2014
25 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Epic belay shot
A lot of guides do this in the Gunks - they insist it's "ok here" Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
288 points
Dec 7, 2015
It is only going to get worse. Dana Bartlett
From CT
Joined Nov 18, 2003
968 points
Dec 7, 2015
Medic741 wrote:
A lot of guides do this in the Gunks - they insist it's "ok here"


I guess we have differing experiences - I've encountered guides numerous times at the Gunks and can't say I've ever seen one toproping through rap rings. I've seen people tying up a rappel that way, but not guides.
MojoMonkey
Joined Jan 29, 2009
85 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Polish Traverse (V5-7)
There's discussion amongst guides as to whether you should lower through rap rings but TR-ing directly is just fucking lazy and using some proxy for status as a way to bully people. I've seen guides do it too, one time even tying up the whole Frog's Head cliff with a Tard Rope Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Joined Feb 24, 2013
106 points
Dec 7, 2015
Troll. Logan Schiff
From Brooklyn, NY
Joined Jun 18, 2012
82 points
Dec 7, 2015
They "fixed" by putting two draws through the rap chains, not the loops. Not opposed, not locked. Then sent a guy up who had no clue (he was apologetic and confused, as well as thankful for the assistance.) to clean it and feed the rope to rap off of it. This guy tried to pull the rope through from the middle so there would be four strands hanging down, and one with loop.
Not a good situation, besides messing up a popular rap route, he put his friend in danger.
RichBeBe
From New York City, NY
Joined Oct 26, 2013
1 points
Dec 7, 2015
Logan Schiff wrote:
Troll.


Logan, you know me better than that. I have better things to do with my time ]than trolling Mountainproject. The guy was toproping through the rap anchor above Hyjack's Horror/Fingerlocks, and was highly offended when I called him out on it.
Schalk
Joined Nov 11, 2010
15 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Minsi, PA
Come on, look at that guy's smile. It's impossible to get mad. Michael C
From New Jersey
Joined Jun 9, 2011
374 points
Dec 7, 2015
Isnt TRing through two anchor points constitute the death triangle?

assuming these are two spaced rings and not chains...
D-Roc
Joined Jun 3, 2013
159 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
Gunks Jesse wrote:
Since when is there an anchor above fingerlocks/cedar box? There was a sling around a tree with rap rings a month ago or so. Did it get bolted?


You can use the tree to the right above Hugo's horror to TR cedar locks if you use a directional.

The tree has two pieces of nylon and a quick link for a rap anchor.
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
439 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Great exposure!
Yep - exactly what I remember. Medium size tree at top of locks and directional to the right hits another tree to hit horror. Everybody was talking about bolted anchors though... Gunks Jesse
From Shawangunk Township, NY
Joined May 18, 2014
262 points
Dec 7, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Gunks Jesse wrote:
Everybody was talking about bolted anchors though...


Where, I don't see bolts being mentioned once in this thread.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Dec 7, 2015
Schalk wrote:
Logan, you know me better than that. I have better things to do with my time ]than trolling Mountainproject. The guy was toproping through the rap anchor above Hyjack's Horror/Fingerlocks, and was highly offended when I called him out on it.


Of course, just joking around :) ! Plus I am jealous you got out! Nice day? I can never sneak away these days. Super dick move by that guy and enjoyed the post.
Logan Schiff
From Brooklyn, NY
Joined Jun 18, 2012
82 points
Dec 7, 2015
When I came across them it was on the lower Madam G rap station. RichBeBe
From New York City, NY
Joined Oct 26, 2013
1 points
Dec 9, 2015
Logan Schiff wrote:
Of course, just joking around :) ! Plus I am jealous you got out! Nice day? I can never sneak away these days. Super dick move by that guy and enjoyed the post.


Yeah. It was ridiculously nice. Can't believe it is December. Last year this time I'm pretty sure I'd already skied the carriage road!
Schalk
Joined Nov 11, 2010
15 points
Dec 9, 2015
john2.71 wrote:
You weren't stuck. You had many options from there. There are two 5.2s, a 5.3, and a soft 5.5 you could have climbed to the top, plus harder routes. You also could have climbed a short 5.4 to the bolted Madam G's rap station, down-climbed the gully next to Northern Pillar, rapped from the tree in front of you, rapped that guy's line, or you could have offered to re-rig it correctly for him.


Really? So I had to climb to the top of the cliff and rap off Madama G's because of some idiot's bad manners?

And how was I supposed to rap off the tree in front of me when that is the rap anchor they were toproping through? Leave gear? Be an even bigger asshole that our toproping buddy and throw the rope around the tree?
Schalk
Joined Nov 11, 2010
15 points
Dec 9, 2015
You can walk left on the ledge and then climb up about 20 (?) feet to the Madame G's rap bolts. It's also an easy down climb to the ground off the left end of that ledge. Dana Bartlett
From CT
Joined Nov 18, 2003
968 points
Dec 9, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Epic belay shot
Wait till top roping climbers on the ground, thread your rope over theirs and rap. Dick move but they probably won't do this again. Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
288 points
Dec 9, 2015
Dana Bartlett wrote:
You can walk left on the ledge and then climb up about 20 (?) feet to the Madame G's rap bolts. It's also an easy down climb to the ground off the left end of that ledge.


Miss the point much? Yes, there are a zillion ways to get down from there (downclimbing the gully to the left being the simplest and Le Teton being the most fun), but that doesn't change the fact that some guy was toproping through the rappel anchor. Which is a dick move, no matter how many other ways there is to get down from there.
Schalk
Joined Nov 11, 2010
15 points
Dec 9, 2015
Well, you made several points but you wrote that you were stuck at the top of a climb waiting to get down, and I thought It would be helpful to suggest several ways to get down. Dana Bartlett
From CT
Joined Nov 18, 2003
968 points
Dec 10, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney
Schalk wrote:
Miss the point much? Yes, there are a zillion ways to get down from there (downclimbing the gully to the left being the simplest and Le Teton being the most fun), but that doesn't change the fact that some guy was toproping through the rappel anchor. Which is a dick move, no matter how many other ways there is to get down from there.


Welcome to Mountain Project. You should have known this would have happened and stayed home. And wearing that short skirt, you had it coming.
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,639 points
Dec 10, 2015
Maybe they both paid for day passes and figured that was what their 34 dollars was going towards. T Roper
From DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Joined Mar 31, 2006
1,053 points
Dec 10, 2015
Medic741 wrote:
Wait till top roping climbers on the ground, thread your rope over theirs and rap. Dick move but they probably won't do this again.


Pulling your rope across theirs inside the rap ring can (will?) damage their rope. Correct me if I'm wrong but the friction there could wear right through their sheath. May be annoyed with them but hopefully not THAT annoyed.
DEF
From Boston, MA
Joined Aug 5, 2009
62 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>