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The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Topless Etiquette 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1995
Page Views: 8,646
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (259)
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BETA PHOTO: The 430 concrete trail marker leading up to the ro...

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  • Description 

    Fourth route from the right. This is probably the best route at the Riviera, at least in terms of sustained quality. Fun and reasonably long. Climbs overlaps and jugs up a slabby wall just right of a small overhanging section (Bosch Blanket Bingo).

    Near the top, move left to the anchor atop Bosch Blanket Bingo, or continue straight up to a higher anchor (bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot to protect the move to the anchor if you do this finish).

    Protection 

    6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Bring a #0.75 or #1 Camalot (and a 60m rope) for the straight-up finish.


    Photos of Topless Etiquette Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route.
    BETA PHOTO: The route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topless Etiquette (09-06-03).  Near the top, trave...
    BETA PHOTO: Topless Etiquette (09-06-03). Near the top, trave...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kira, 11, 4'5", near the crux for kids.  Phot...
    Kira, 11, 4'5", near the crux for kids. Phot...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon at the second bolt.
    Peter Dillon at the second bolt.

    Comments on Topless Etiquette Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 20, 2017
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 15, 2001

    This route is quite nice and continuous, not a very defined crux as there are harder sections for shorter/taller folks. A good route to practice footwork, especially for newbies to moderate slab routes. I had fun on this one and only wish it could be longer. Just as easy to use the anchors to the left instead of going through the blocky quartzite ridge.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Sep 6, 2003

    This is a nice little route. I counted six bolts today though; the last bolt is maybe two or three feet away from the next-to-last. Is that a new bolt? Definitely felt natural to just head over to the anchors to the left, rather than straight up through the blocky section.
    By richard magill
    Jul 16, 2004
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Excellent 5.8 sport route - fun and continuous.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 17, 2005

    Gear Alert
    WARNING: The 3rd Bolt from the bottom is loose and spinning!! Is there anyone out there who monitors these routes? I don't know how to replace the bolts, but I thought someone should know...

    Loose bolt aside, this is a really fun moderate route. Good moves the whole way, with good protection. It's just as easy to use the lower set of anchors as it is to use the upper set. Watch out for the wet spot near the 3rd bolt.

    -ajs
    By Tom Hanson
    Nov 8, 2005

    Dear AC,

    Regarding the "loose bolts" on Topless Etiquette:Is the actual bolt spinning or merely the hanger? Spinning hangers are common and all that is generally required is an easy turn of the wrench. Spinning hangers are usually not dangerous unless the bolt has come dangerously unthreaded. If the bolt itself is spinning, it should be replaced.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 24, 2005

    Fun route that is fairly consistently good climbing. From the anchors, it is also possible to traverse left over the anchors for Devin's Dihedral enabling you to set up a top rope for that route. (As of today, the third hanger was spinning but the bolt looked good).
    By Scott Edlin
    From: boulder, co
    May 9, 2006

    The bolts are fine. Weird but fun route.
    By DamageVic
    From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
    Jul 15, 2009

    Really enjoyed this route yesterday- All the bolts/hangers seemed fine to me. There's a surprisingly good crimper for the L hand just before the 4th(?) bolt. Fun!
    By Kevin Gabelman
    Feb 21, 2011

    Fun w/ some high feet.
    By Jim Fox
    From: Westminster, CO
    Sep 27, 2014
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Lead this today. Really pretty fun, but like some other routes at this crag, the line is a little indistinct. As others have said, no obvious crux but pretty sustained with a few nice rests.

    I'd call this "old school" 5.7 or modern 5.8.
    By Rob King
    From: Lone Tree
    Jun 26, 2016
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

    The top 20ft is all run out but prob 5.6. A "no fall zone". I would say a 5.9+ lead because of the slabby feet.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jun 28, 2016

    Rob, gear will help limit the runout at the top, as suggested in the Protection section above.
    By lonnie
    From: lafayette, co
    Nov 1, 2016

    I am a very new leader and also very short (5'3"). I tried to lead this route for the first time but could not figure out moves to get comfortable clipping the first bolt. Have other short leaders had this problem, or did I just miss it? I tried coming straight up from the bottom...and then tried to go to the left of the line and traverse in...unsuccessfully. Thanks.
    By OriginalMikeJohnson
    From: Denver
    Feb 20, 2017
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I climbed this 2/18/17 & I'm 5'8". 5.8 is true to the grade and a very fun lead. Though the first bolt is high off the ground, it's very easy to get to. If you stay left, below the bolt, you can comfortably stand and clip it. Again, I'm 5'8", but at that stance, the bolt was just above head high. Fun climb, maybe a bit over bolted but great for the grade. If you're new to 5.8, do this climb, it's a good one.

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