Top ten hardest trad routes in the Northeast

We're talking hardest single pitches in the Northeast (CT, MA, ME, RI, NH, NY, VT). NJ and PA do not count as they are stuck in the Mid-Atlantic with MD and DE. Pure physical difficulty is much more important than R/X climbing, though tough-to-place gear certainly counts towards making something more physically difficult.

My top ten (in some order):

Difficulties Be Damned, Cathedral
Northern Hospitality, Cathedral
Cecile, Cathedral
Geezer Pleaser at Stonehouse Pond
Oppositional Defiance Disorder, Silver Lake, Dacks
Ill Fire (Illuminescence-Fire in the Sky linkup), Moss Cliff, Dacks
Wheelin' and Dealin', Spider's Web, Dacks
Ozone (Twilight Zone-French Connection linkup), Gunks
Cybernetic Wall, Gunks
Monumantle, Gunks

Post up if you think you have a route that knocks any of these off the list. Many have not even seen a second ascent, so grade haggling is somewhat pointless (and yet, so fun). Just be warned, it does have to be 13d-ish to have a shot. EDIT: keep 'em coming, and I'll keep amending the list as need be.

Honorable mention:

Moonshine and Chronic, Mud Pond, Dacks (has four bolts to go with some gear)
Mushu, Little Johnson, Dacks (Is it a trad route? Don't know enough about it but the picture on Adirondack Rock's website makes it look like a sport route. Please give details)
Off the Couch, The Crown, Dacks(?) (not quite hard enough to bump W&D off)
The Hard Way and Stoning the Fascist, Marshfield, VT (both mostly sport bolted, I think)
Maniac on Quoddy Head, Maine (details are a little sketchy on this obscure route but apparently it is half sport-bolted. Please offer more details if you can)
Bulletproof, Farley (Some still say 13+, and grade surely depends somewhat on body part sizes as with most offwidths, but this has settled in at 13-)
Clairvoyance, Gunks (not quite hard enough to bump W&D off)

I'd say just talk to Peter Kamitses and he could come up with a list since he has done a bunch of them.

Oppositional Defiance Disorder is actually at Silver Lake, not Moss Cliff. Maybe you're thinking of Illuminescence?

Also add in:
Mushu (5.13d), Little Johnson.
Moonshine And Chronic (5.13+), Silver Lake
Off The Couch (5.13c), The Crown.

There's another Adirondack project that will reportedly come in around .13d/.14a when it goes.

MaxSuffering wrote:Oppositional Defiance Disorder is actually at Silver Lake, not Moss Cliff. Maybe you're thinking of Illuminescence? Also add in: Mushu (5.13d), Little Johnson. Moonshine And Chronic (5.13+), Silver Lake Off The Couch (5.13c), The Crown. There's another Adirondack project that will reportedly come in around .13d/.14a when it goes.

Ozone, 5.14a R in the gunks.

I know PK has done it but the FA was Cody Sims and only those two are believed to have placed all gear on lead.

Pete has a 14a at marshefield in VT

Maniac is (or was) a sport climb.

thought I saw a shot in the book of him plugging gear?

Nick, Stoning the Facist (14b) and The Hard Way (14a) both need gear but have bolts.

Not sure what to call that for the sake of this thread.

I suppose that depends on how the bolts went in and how much gear is needed.

Clairvoyance at the Gunks has two bolts and is 13c

The problem is that the folks who know what is what & was done do not lurk or post.
In the spirit of sharing
I will mention

Mantronics, a Jerry Moffet FA right there at the Survival block.

&

Jordan mills, (w/Clune) - Blade Runner. Now an expensive ( if you can't flash, which you can't ) affair to climb @ Sky Top

Russ Clune's Roof at Ski Mini. .,. Er, I mean Peterskill ( Russ has the knowledge for sure )

Bullet Proof at Farley, 5.13+ off width...

Joe M. wrote:Bullet Proof at Farley, 5.13+ off width...

Awesome. Thanks for the corrections Ward and Max. And thanks other folks for posting up a bunch of rad routes I had never heard of. I'll update the list.

DRusso wrote:I'd say just talk to Peter Kamitses and he could come up with a list since he has done a bunch of them.

Planet Claire at the Gunks clocks in at 14b with gnarly R section that is probably at least 5.12.

Is that the think next to Clairvoyance? Looks ridiculous. If so, does the R climbing get cozier using the Clairvoyance bolts or is it way up high?

It traverses up and right from the final Clairvoyance bolt not really sure how hard it is. I've only seen people climb it.

Does "The Fly" count? I know it's bolted but you could opt only to use trad gear... and a bouldering pad w/ spotters....

Not trying to start a heated discussion but can't any sport route be a trad route if you opt to not use bolts?