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Top Rope 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 67
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 4, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Top Rope follows the seams in the middle of the pi...

Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

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Description 

This route is just to the right of the prominent dark streak and about 8’ left of Mickey Mantle. There is an old bolt line up the middle of the face to the right; the hangers are long gone. So whether this climb was originally done as a top rope and later bolted, or the name comes from a time after the bolts were stripped, is unknown. The Mayr guide shows this line as following the flaring seams to the left of the bolt line. There are no pro opportunities in the seams. Start at the base of the seams, working directly up. There is an occasional hold on the face to the right. After the upper seam bends to the right, the climbing eases off and continues to the anchor, shared with Mickey Mantle. Rappel to descend.

Location 

Just left of the rusty hangerless bolt line

Protection 

Two bolt chain anchor; No pro available for leading


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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 4, 2009

As I have no idea as to the history of this climb, I don’t know the reasoning behind the rating given (from the old topo sign next to the Big Rock trail and echoed in the Mayr guide). We flailed and hung and cussed our way up the seams – I’d rate that line as at least 5.10b/c crack climbing. To stay on the face climbing the old bolt line is excruciating and must be hard 5.11; I’d appreciate any input on this route.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 4, 2009

I tried this route 15 years ago and it did have hangers on it. However, it seemed hopelessly sandbagged and walked away from it.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 18, 2009

Or maybe I tried the hangerless bolt line?
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 14, 2010

I too remember this feeling pretty darn hard. Especially when compared to other 5.10's nearby.
By Bill Odenthal
From: Whittier,CA
Sep 24, 2013

The old hangerless bolt line I believe is one that Rob Mulligan and I put up in the mid to late 80's. It was done on lead although we were accused of rap bolting it. If I remember right I believe we gave it a rating of hard 11 or maybe a 12. The crux if I remember right was getting past bolt #2. Don't remember now what we named it. Also don't think I could climb it now.

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