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Homeward Spire
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top rope on homeward spire T 

top rope on homeward spire 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X [details]
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: josh balt on May 18, 2012

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This Route has been traditionally top roped for a number of years, and should remain a toprop. The route goes directly up the impressive prow of homeward spire facing the road. It is said that Ren Fenton would Boulder up the prow for about 20 to 30 feet and then come down. I decided to go for it today past the 30 ft point and push it from the ground to the top. There is no gear and no bolts. The entire time I had the song "The Cave" by Mumford and sons, blasting from my car.

"Its empty in the valley of your heart
The sun, it rises slowly as you walk
Away from all the fears
And all the faults you've left behind

The harvest left no food for you to eat
You cannibal, you meat-eater, you see
But I have seen the same
I know the shame in your defeat

But I will hold on hope
And I will let you choke
On the noose around your neck

And I'll find strength in pain
And I will change my ways
I'll know my name as it's called again

Cause I have other things to fill my time
You take what is yours and I'll take mine
Now let me at the truth
Which will refresh my broken mind

So tie me to a post and block my ears
I can see widows and orphans through my tears
I know my call despite my faults
And despite my growing fears

So come out of your cave walking on your hands
And see the world hanging upside down
You can understand dependence
When you know the maker's land

So make your siren's call
And sing all you want
I will not hear what you have to say

Cause I need freedom now
And I need to know how
To live my life as it's meant to be

-The Cave Mumford and Sons-


Needles Style Rapple off the summit.


No Bolts Its A free solo

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By Branden Michelkamp
From: Salt Lake City
May 19, 2012

Impressive send man, I am glad I could be a part of your accomplishment.
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
May 20, 2012

Impressive send but the F.A. was climbed in about 1983 by Mike Head..... Paul Muehl thwarted Head's bolting and told him to remove the bolts or they would disappear despite the style they were placed so Head ran it out to the summit. I don't believe this route was ever documented in the Blue Book. An F.A. is an F.A. CSP has in the past requested no one climb this line..... Glad to hear of no bolts.
By josh balt
From: Hill City South Dakota
Jun 7, 2012

brent good to know. Thanks for the beta. I had no idea that there were bolts at one point on the climb. Anyway your right. I may be the first to do it with out bolts but still no FFA. Thats fine with me.
By Robbie Freidel
From: The Needles of South Dakota
Jul 19, 2012

I'm not positive, but i believe the original name of the this route was "Helen of Troy"
By Mark Rafferty
From: Rapid City,SD
Sep 25, 2016

I was little upset to hear that this route won't be allowed to be bolted ground up. It would get climbed a lot more.

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