REI Community
Eagle Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You Lichen It? S 
Bananarama S 
Black Streak S 
Bunga Bunga S 
Didgemaster S 
Handsome Parish Lady S 
Indecent Insertion S 
Jug Abuse S 
Killer Bee S 
Kona S 
Maalox Moment S 
Manhattan S 
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 
New Wave S 
Old Wave T 
Omdulation Fever S 
Pepto-Dismal S 
Psycho Thriller TR 
Racist Fantasy S 
Top Hat S 
Turkey Baster S 
Tutti Frutti S 
Unnamed Left S 
Unnamed Right S 

Top Hat 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Leslie Coon?
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The entertaining start of "Unnamed Middle&quo...


Another excellent, long Eagle Canyon face climb. This line faces slightly more north than its twin "Unnamed Left", so it receives more shade, and so is a bit mossy-er. Despite the slightly less than ideal stone, this route offers a rope-stretching pitch of great climbing capped by an intimidating roof.

Begin by scrambling up the ramp-like dihedral. Head up the steep slab to a technical crux around the 4th and 5th bolts. A timely jaunt onto the right arete provides some key relief before veering back left. The final roof can be surmounted directly on good pockets, or its possible to traverse left around it, depending on your preference.


Immediately right of "Unnamed Left", or two routes right of Manhattan.


10 bolts, shares the anchor with "Unnamed Left".

Photos of Top Hat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux section of "Unnamed Middle".
In the crux section of "Unnamed Middle".

Comments on Top Hat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Aug 22, 2008

Only 10 bolts, and I thought the crux was between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it is pretty sustained all the way.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.

I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong.
By Scott Beguin
From: Santa Fe, NM
Sep 5, 2009

I believe this route is called "Top Hat."
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 5, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I thought this route was stellar. Never thought the moss was a problem and if I remember correctly, this thing is super sustained on great stone.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About