Top 5 knots you use for Trad

Tell me what your favorite five knots are that you think are the most important for trad.

Clove Hitch, Muenter, prussic, tape knot, fishermans.
Not necessarily in that order. I am assuming the figure 8 and figure 8 retrace.

clove

Does clove count?

hitches are considered part of the knot classification, they just need another property to hold their form.

used for trad:

clove, eight on a bight, overhand, double fishermans, flat overhand, waterknot -- all could be for anchor rigs, which is what I think of when you say trad.

1. Figure Eight (On a bite and not)
2. Clove Hitch
3. Water knot
4. Overhand
5. Double Fishermans

On a smooth trad climb with no hauling, extra gear and no emergencies I think that these five knots will get everything you need done from tying in to setting up anchors and repelling back down.

I also use the Double Bowline a lot for tying in when sport climbing or at the gym, but not so much when trad climbing.

What cheifitj said. I'd make the bowline #6.

What everybody else said with one addition: The sliding overhand knot (also called the slip knot) on runners for slinging horns and such. It is amazing how much natural protection is out there if you look for it.

I only use three.

1- granny
2- double granny
3- triple granny (only when it gets real dangerous)

Remember, if you can't tie knots, tie lots.

jk

good one Lee.

What about the webbing knot used like a stopper nut? (simple overhand/flat overhand??)

Never use it but good to know the Munter hitch if you loose or forget your belay device. and rarely use the prusik but it can get you out of a bad situation.

Lee Smith wrote:What everybody else said with one addition: The sliding overhand knot (also called the slip knot) on runners for slinging horns and such. It is amazing how much natural protection is out there if you look for it.

Good question! I would say the ones I use the most are-

1. fig 8 on a bight
2. clove hitch
3. overhand on a bight
4. water knot
5. double fishermans
6. prussik- emergency, ascend and self rescue

Also, know how to properly use a cordalette, which is standard protocol IMHO.

Hvae fun, climb safe!

1. I'm not climbing on that crappy rope of yours
2. I'm not fucking leading that pitch!
3. I'm not not going to drink beer when we are done.
4. I'm not going to let you lead all the good pitchs while I get the choss pitchs
5. I'm not really sure what happened to the approach trail (used mostly in the S Plate)

Opps, maybe I misunderstood your tread.

Agree with most everything here.

1. I would replace double fishermans with overhand/euro death knot. Haven't used a fishermans in years.

2. I would replace prussic with Klemheist. Works well with round cord or flat webbing/slings. Can't say that for the prussic.

Good topic!

1. Clove Hitch
2. Patagonia a.k.a. edk
3. overhand on a bight
4. figure eight on a bight
5. prusik

For the act of climbing itself, including belaying, rapping, building anchors, and securing rope:
Figure 8
Clove hitch
Figure 8/Overhand on a bite
Tripple fishermans
Munter
In that order.

If you want to talk about rescue utility rather than the actual act of climbing, the situation changes. You need to know other stuff too.

1. Figure eight (bite & ft)
2. Overhand
3. Clove hitch
4. Münter hitch
5. Klemheist ( > prusik...works well with cord and webbing alike)

1-3 are standard fare for everyday climbing. 4-5 are for when things don't go as planned.

Knots.....hehe

no double loops yet?

1. Monkey Fist
2. Windsor
3. Double knotted shoelace
4. Slip knot
5. Monkey Fist