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Top 40 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 5,640
Submitted By: Craig Quincy on May 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (165)
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Top 40.

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    If there are 40 routes on Wall Street then this definitely ranks in the Top 40. I wouldn't plan a road trip around it, but this is worth doing if you're looking for one of the few 5.8 leads in the desert or a warm up.

    This left facing corner is distinguished by two drilled angles at the top.Upward progress can be made via almost any climbing technique: laybacking, jamming, stemming, etc. Locate the route on the left side of the cliff before encountering the second top roping area. To its left lies Lacto Mangulation (5.10b) a right facing corner with several bolts and to its right is skeletron (sp?) a bolted 5.11d.

    Descent: Short rap to ground ~ 50 feet.

    It looks possible to climb passed the anchor on Top 40 via a thin hand crack and achieve the top of the anchor on skeletron.


    Standard rack (nuts fit in a couple spots) + 2 quickdraws for the drill angles.

    Photos of Top 40 Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve T leading Top 40.
    Steve T leading Top 40.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top of Top 40.
    Looking down from the top of Top 40.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Simon on Top 40
    Joe Simon on Top 40
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica laybacking toward the P1 anchors.
    Jessica laybacking toward the P1 anchors.

    Comments on Top 40 Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2017
    By Dan Russell
    May 10, 2003

    One of the few 5.8's in the desert? If you can't find an overabundance of 5.8 you're not looking very hard, or at all.
    By Scott Conner
    From: Lyons, CO
    May 15, 2003

    I thought this was a pretty fun route. It's easier than it looks. It's not only possible to climb the finger crack up and right of the anchors, it's part of the route and worth doing IMO. Barring communication issues and another party ascending Skeletron, these two short pitches can be combined. Be mindful of the loose blocks on the ledge near the Skeletron anchors.
    By Rhett Burroughs
    From: Rock Springs, WY
    Oct 18, 2007

    Seemed harder than 5.8 to me. Maybe because I was worn out from the day.. I dunno!
    By JeffUT
    From: Roy, Utah
    May 24, 2010

    There's a nice ledge to stand on to the right of the belay anchors. I ended up setting a #3 Friend before I got to the first bolt. Fun route.
    By Jesse Western
    From: ogden utah
    Oct 28, 2010

    Cool route man... I think Jorma Hayes is the culprit behind this first ascent! Ya baby! I'll give the dude a buzz, I'm pretty sure though :)
    By John Braun
    From: Hendersonville, NC
    Oct 24, 2011

    Somebody pounded in a piton about 6' up this route, they obviously put it in standing on that little ledge. Sure, the beginning is a little tricky, but seriously, a piton? It's since been removed.
    By leodelta
    Oct 26, 2014

    felt a little stiffer than 5.8 to me.
    By Lexi Q
    Nov 1, 2015

    definitely stiffer than a 5.8
    By Eric Thomas
    From: Colorado
    Feb 20, 2016

    Good beginner trad lead -- 1 tiny nut, #1, #2, 2 quickdraws is all you need.
    By Austin Martin
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 29, 2016

    If "Lacto Mangulation" to the left is 5.10b, than this is at least 5.10a in my opinion. Thinner than it looks, and certainly not 5.8 comparatively. Great climb, get on it!
    By Tombo
    From: Boulder
    Dec 4, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Agree. Personally think it's harder then Lacko Mangulation but then again I didn't like the start off of small gear.
    By Derek Michael
    May 9, 2017

    Funny, I found this way easier than 30 Seconds Over Potash - another nearby 5.8.

    Thin start and small gear. Over in a heart beat.

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