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Toothless Fox T 

Toothless Fox 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 425'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Richards, Alan Stark
Page Views: 18
Submitted By: DCSwish23 on Jan 12, 2011

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Description 

Most of this rock is very abrasive and loose.

(P1) Start on the pointy block. Climb up and traverse right to the crack system. Climb the crack system with poor protection up a waterline to a small round standing spot. Relatively little place to put in good gear here as well.

(P2) Climb leftward out of the belay point and continue up the crack system as it slants slightly to the right. Finish next to the dead bush (visible from the beginning of the pitch) on a long diagonal ledge. Protection is difficult to find on the pitch and at the belay point.

(P3) Continue up the crack system as the climbing gets a bit easier and finally begins to have places to put gear (by this point you shouldn't be dependent on such mental crutches by this point). Find an appropriate belay point at the top.

Pitches, probably second and third, might be able to be linked to reduce anchor building if you have a longer rope.

Location 

Start below a prominent crack in the center of the slab.

Protection 

Trad gear, tricams and nuts were especially useful.


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