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Tooth Fairy 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 8'
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Jake Perry
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Jake Perry on Jan 10, 2016

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Description 

An eliminate that's pretty fun and a decent warm-up for your fingers. Start with left hand on a waaay low left flake and right hand up higher on a good edge (this same edge is used in Blade Runner). Find your feet and then bump your left hand to this crazy shark-tooth hold, don't try to crimp directly on the tooth or you'll cut yourself open, instead push against the back of the tooth and get a weird thumb pinch. Bump again to a good crimp right below the arete and then throw to the lip. The arete isn't used in the FA, but honestly it's not needed either as the high left crimp is really good and closer to you, it'd be a pretty big reach to use the arete.

Location 

Between Hot Rod and Blade Runner in the Movie Gallery area

Protection 

A pad.


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