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Tooth Fairy 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Craig Luebben
Page Views: 2,596
Submitted By: snowhazed on Mar 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Giulia Luebben age 9 on "Tooth Fairy" or...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At the end the corner starts to separate and gear would be hard to find and awkward to place- just run it about 12 feet switching to left side in and make an exciting heel hook to gain the top of the right side of the corner. Yeah!


To the right of Unbelievable


Lots of wide stuff and believe it or not a few med-lrg nuts.

Photos of Tooth Fairy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Reese Doyle climbs Tooth Fairy in the sunset, Cree...
Reese Doyle climbs Tooth Fairy in the sunset, Cree...
Rock Climbing Photo: happy after done with 20 pound  rack : single from...
happy after done with 20 pound rack : single from...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roberto enrolls in O-Dubya University
Roberto enrolls in O-Dubya University

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By Patrick Kingsbury
Mar 27, 2010

FA: Craig Luebben
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c


Do I need to say more????

Absolutely amazing, sustained forever, many BD #5 (new style).......

The start wasn't too bad for me as I got great stacks, but further up the stacks turned really crappy....... The pod is fun, both getting into and out of......

A 70 meter rope works perfectly, but just, so pay attention!!!!

The ultimate climb for screaming barfies.......
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

did not find good nut placement ( #6 instead) and no heel hook.
My gear was in Camalots:
single from 0.4-#3 , 2#4, 4#5, 2#6

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