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Tooth Beaver 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 1992
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Nov 24, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: approximate anchor chains to tooth beaver


Climb a large flake that leans against the main face. From the top of the flake, two old bolts can be seen to your left. Traverse left a bit and clip the second bolt. The rest of the bolts are relatively new and of good quality. I felt the crux was getting on top of the "tooth" to the right of the first new bolt. Once that is surmounted, continue pretty much straight up. There is a bit of a runout getting to the anchors after the last bolt; however, it's fairly easy. This is a route I'll do again.


This route is located about fifty feet to the right of Eff Four.


7 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos of Tooth Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: approach to tooth beaver and eff four
BETA PHOTO: approach to tooth beaver and eff four

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By Big Nic
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 4, 2013

Climbed on 3/3/13. The upper face (after 3rd or 4th bolt) climbs on and around some big and loose flakes. The bolts are on solid rock but the flakes are hard to avoid. Try to belay from sheltered position... these big flakes can break off easily.
By David Fogel
From: Lake Forest, CA
6 days ago

Great route to push your slab skills, and guaranteed no one will be hogging this one. Not a sport route IMO. But don't bother bringing any trad gear unless you plan on passing the anchors to top out/walk off. Loose flakes. Belayer wear helmet. Rapping on a 70 meter rope is important. We were able to rap on a 60m to a blocky huge flake “fang” definitely tying stopper knots on the ends, then go down an 'easy' J Tree chimney flake deal, class 5. You can also sling the rope and rap off the huge block/flake and whip off the rope after several attempts... Your mileage may vary.

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