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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Molly Higgins and Dan McClure, mid-70s
Page Views: 1,717
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Matt Tooting at Lumpy

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


A one pitch finger crack with good supplemental edges. Find a steep finger crack that does not reach the ground on the wall right of the gigantic Howling at the Wind dihedral (same approach as for Fat City Crack, and a good climb to do when you come back to get your stuff after climbing that route). Traditionally, there are stacked rocks at the base of the route below the crack. Starting from the rocks, make a wild, footless, crux move to a perfect finger jam, which unfortunately is also your first good gear. I actually stick-placed (yes, placed) a nut there before starting to mitigate the good possibility of a sprained ankle or worse (the ground drops away sharply to the right)-- a devious (read: weenie) technique that is nevertheless quite common, I hear. Regardless, one encounters two more 5.10 cruxes before reaching a ledge on Pear Buttress. It is possible to continue up that or other routes, but most people rappel (75 ft.) from webbing (of cordalette length) around a flake right at the top of the route (may not be fixed, so bring some).


Small stoppers and cams, and Friends #s 2-3 up high.

Photos of Toot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun, powerful moves up a crack system.
Fun, powerful moves up a crack system.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ray Rice and Jay Dufresne on Toot. 10-5-03
Ray Rice and Jay Dufresne on Toot. 10-5-03
Rock Climbing Photo: A couple more moves to reach the horizontals and t...
A couple more moves to reach the horizontals and t...
Rock Climbing Photo: A perhaps unusual way to do the crux with the righ...
A perhaps unusual way to do the crux with the righ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Step off the blocks down and left from Brad using ...
Step off the blocks down and left from Brad using ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The bottom nut in the photo is the one that can be...
BETA PHOTO: The bottom nut in the photo is the one that can be...

Comments on Toot Add Comment
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By Joe Collins
Jul 27, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm embarresed to admit that I too pre-placed the first nut (but didn't clip the rope) when I climbed this. I wish I hadn't because the moves off the deck aren't that hard, but the landing sucks. It sounds like this is standard practice for this route, and there is a quiver of sticks at the base that serve this purpose.An excellent, sustained, short climb that would be 3 stars if it were longer.

Gillet guide has this as 10c. It felt a bit easier than Outlander, which is benchmark hard-10c.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2004

See the second photo below for historical info and a question about the "cheater" rocks.
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a really fun route if you're solid at 5.10. The start is hard but definitely felt like the crux to me.
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2009

Save your ankles... stick place the nut from the ground. Your fingers will be blocking the placement once you do the move... Placing the nut from the ground but not clipping a draw or the rope to it would be a fine compromise IMO.
I found this route to be hard because it is quite pumpy (I suck at pumpy climbing!). I thought some of the pro placements were not immediately obvious (though they are excellent), so I got quite pumped placing and had to hang.
By climberKJ
From: Holderness, NH
Jul 25, 2009

I also had the nut pre-placed for me, however I was too short to reach the solid finger jam on the left from the stack of rocks. Instead I started at the bottom and traversed over to get it. Climbing it this way added a few more stout moves, but it was super fun and rewarding. I recommend it.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Place a smaller nut deep down in the first placement and it's not a problem interfering with the fingers. Set it well so it won't walk out. Also, the first hold is much better fore the left hand middle-ring-pinkey combo than if you try to get the index finger in.

We also replaced the top-anchor for this one today with new webbing and a rapid. It is very solid, but presently is just one loop. So the next person up there should consider backing it up.

It is VERY easy to back up for a belay with a cordalette.

PS- This is a very fun route for no longer than it is (55') and packs a good punch.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Jun 5, 2010

Best to use the pin and stopper anchor atop the second pitch of Pear Buttress. This is a permanent anchor with chains to rap off of. One sixty meter rope will easily make it to the base of Toot. Using the Pear Buttress anchor will keep the ratty slings and tat to a minimum.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I'm calling sandbag! A consensus of 5.10c? Maybe it's because I'm a shortie (5'7"), but I found the opening moves to be close to a V3 boulder problem, which leads to a good, active rest, and then another V2 boulder problem using sloping underclings with terrible feet. After that, it's still not over with some pumpy 5.10- crack that requires a lot of body English. The gear isn't that easy to place either, as it's quite small and finicky for most of the climb. Regardless, an incredible pitch of sporty crack-climbing!

I felt no shame in stick-placing and clipping the nut. It's a nasty fall if you mess up those opening moves, the rest of the route is totally safe aside from the gear tinkering.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'll say that if you stick clip the nut in place it may feel like 10c. I didn't, and it felt like 10d or even 11a. I've climbed easier V3s than this. There are definitely feet to use in the opening moves- they are just subtle and/or high up. I thought the real crux was higher up when the crack jogs left and the gear is thin... there are some subtle movements that seem harder than the opening moves. Overall, this route is great and is more technical than Outlander... so it's hard to compare the two.

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