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Toot Suite aka Toot Suit 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Sibley and Billy Roos, 1972
Page Views: 931
Submitted By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Thin crack in the center of the photo.


This is a fun, finger crack on the south side of Chair Rock. It is hard to miss. It starts off a ledge about 80 feet off the ground. You can either do one of several options as a first pitch (all 5.8ish), or you can scramble up a short chimney crack thing on the left side of the ledge. Enjoy the sun drenched grassy ledge, and if you get motivated, climb the crack. I always thought it was easier than the given grade.

Also of note are two bolt protected face climbs to either side of the crack. If you do all three climbs, it makes for a fun afternoon.


Rap from summit 120 feet.


Small cams and stoppers.

Photos of Toot Suite aka Toot Suit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack is visible to Derrill's left.  It splits...
The crack is visible to Derrill's left. It splits...

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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 24, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is pretty darn easy if I can lead it! Harder before sticky shoes, I suppose. Gear placement is the crux.
By Deaun Schovajsa
Aug 27, 2008

I thought this route was called Toot Suite (as in sweet), but my old memory is not so good anymore.
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Nov 19, 2009

I think Deaun is correct. The name since the '70s was Toot Suite, I believe.

Short, just a few moves, but fun. I watched Steve Stubblefield solo it once.
By George Bracksieck
Jan 3, 2013

I led the thin crack, using some aid from wires, in July 1972. Then we moved right, tunneling through some boulders, to reach the last pitch of what is now called "Destination Unknown." There were no bolts in sight.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
May 11, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Be careful not to plug up the finger locks with cams. Nuts work best at the start!

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