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Toy Story T 

Tool Time 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith 11/98
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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jeff, trying to onsight

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Hardest route on this small section of cliff to the right of Tales From the Crimp (5.12b) and the only one that is all bolted. A very cool and challenging climb on steep rock that eases up in angle at the top but increases in difficulty as well.

Start on the same steep powerful moves as Tool Story but continue following bolts straight up. The angle eases up a bit and around this point the good holds run out and you climb some pretty tough moves on slopers and small holds to the anchor.

Location 

Same start as Tool Story (5.10b) but follow the bolts straight up.

Protection 

3 bolts to anchor


Photos of Tool Time Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: talk to the hand
talk to the hand
Rock Climbing Photo: Me trying to muscle through the crux (unsuccessful...
Me trying to muscle through the crux (unsuccessful...

Comments on Tool Time Add Comment
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By Chad Laflamme
From: North Conway, NH
Apr 21, 2009

Very awkward crux. I tried to muscle it the first couple times, did not go over well. Tricky beta makes the moves much easier; don't worry I won't spoil it though.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Nov 16, 2012

I went into this climb knowing my friends had once flailed. Awkward or tricky is pretty accurate. Cool technique once you figure out what you want to do. :)
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
May 9, 2015

If anyone could PM/email me the "trick" for this one I would be super appreciative. I know there's gotta be something I am missing because what I was trying felt quite a bit harder than 10d. Cool climb though....I enjoyed doing the "Tool Story" link-up after this.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 10, 2015

I forget my trick every time but it I climb it soon and I remember, I'll let you know
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
May 10, 2015

I'd appreciate that man!
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Apr 18, 2017

Ok, I got on this one two weeks ago, and here's my beta for short people.

BETA SPOILER:

When you get your hands up on the ledge, move to the right. Don't be tempted to climb up and get your feet on the ledge yet---the kneebar is a trap! Stay to the right of the chockstones, stemming your feet out, and get your right hand up on the slopey crimp on the arete. Bump it up one level to the next (better) slopey crimp just a few inches above. Now switch your left hand to an undercling in the big hole and start walking your feet up. Get your feet on the ledge and lean/stand to the left, eventually releasing your left as you work your right hand up the arete---there is an ok slopey spot and then a pretty good dish/knob about the level of the bolt. Clip; then from here, step your right foot up on the lowest slopey crimp on the arete, rock over, stand up, and then head for the top.

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