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Too Slick to Stick 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jerry and Sigrid Anderson
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: G Halsne on Jun 7, 2016

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Description 

This route requires a bit of aid to reach the first placements. 2 Bolts to tug on protect the first section which leads to a rounded flake and then great climbing on flakes and cracks above with solid gear placements. Pull the roof and climb some Brain Plates to the anchors out right that are shared with the route to the right. Save some medium nuts if you want to have fun protecting the "grey matter" like features from the roof to the anchors. Suggested beta would be for the follower to clean on TR due to the anchors trending right.

Location 

Second bolts from the left. 20 feet right of Block head and the leaning boulder.

Protection 

4 bolts. First 2 are for A0 moves.
Gear at 1-4"


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