REI Community
Supercrack Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
24 Variation T 
24 Unknown T 
3AM Crack T 
? T 
Amaretto Corner T 
Anasazi T 
Bad Rad Duality T 
Binge and Purge T 
Bongo Flake T 
Coyne Crack T 
Fat Free T 
Fingers In A Lightsocket T 
Fledge TR 
Gorilla T 
Incredible Hand Crack T 
International Affair T 
Keyhole Flake T 
King Sooper T 
Left Affair T 
Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 
No Name Crack T 
Nuclear Waste T 
On-Slot, The T 
Painted Pony T 
Pigs in a Slot T 
Pink Flamingo T 
Pringles T 
Savelli Crack T 
super bubbushka T 
Super Surprised T 
Supercrack of the Desert T 
Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
Twin Cracks T 
Unknown T,TR 
Unknown Left of The Wave T 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 
Wave, The T 
Wild Works of Fire T 
Zow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Too Much Cake 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: Mike Sokoloff on Mar 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
fun rest before the biz! rest up and go!!!

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route is about 250 feet to the right of Supercrack. You can't miss the obvious OW that starts from a pedestal and is the start of the route. A pretty burly route in general. It starts off in an OW which is very conducive to laybacking. A #5 Camalot makes this section tolerable. Where the OW constricts to thin crack there is a notch which the rope runs directly over and threatens to bind up the rope. Avoid this by placing a #0 TCU there to keep the rope out of the crack. After that, start laybacking and slamming the 1.5 Friends. Don't get tunnel vision, there are rests. Get psyched for the roof at the finish. It's burly but all there.


Many, many #0.75 Camalots or 1.5 Friends (no fewer than 10). One #5 Camalot for the OW/layback start. One set of TCUs should suffice for the low thin-crack section.

Photos of Too Much Cake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: red metolius anybody?
red metolius anybody?
Rock Climbing Photo: bring #6!! use long sling. and pack a lunch.
bring #6!! use long sling. and pack a lunch.

Comments on Too Much Cake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 27, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Use a 6 friend with a QD and a #4 in the high horizontal to avoid pinch and protect oneself whilst the crack is thin ! Oh how crisp and clean is this gem. # 1 1/2 friends for the meat. 2 ea. on either side of that.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About