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Chief Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chief Mo'o-wai (Shaking Hand) S 
Chief Po-bisho-e-quasho (Iron Jacket) S 
Chief Salad S 
Chief Sick-ee-Gnar S 
General George Custer S 
Geronimossimo S 
Hin- mah- too- yah- lat- tekt S 
Kansas City Chiefs S 
Little Big Horn S 
Little Chief S 
Makhpiya-Luta S 
Quanah - Last Comanche Warrior Chief S 
Scout S 
Tatanka-lyotanka S 
Too Many Chiefs T 
White Buffalo S 
White Fish S 
Yah-Keerah T 

Too Many Chiefs 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: R. Bert, P. Lenz on gear 8/29/13
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: PeterSLenz on Aug 30, 2013  with updates from David Gutzman and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Too Many Chiefs ascends the prominent crack in cen...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


This pitch is a traditionally protected crack/small chimney. The climbing is of fair quality, and the rock is generally solid. It protects well with traditional gear, but you can also reach left and clip bolts on an adjacent sport-climb pitch. It would thus be a very reasonable pitch for a beginning trad leader.

Too Many Chiefs 

Locate the route Hin-mah-too-yah-lat-kekt (AKA Chief Joseph) as described in the UINTA ROCK guidebook. There is another line of bolts to the RIGHT of Chief Joseph (Little Chief). To the immediate RIGHT of this bolt line, there is an obvious crack. This is your climb. To the right of the crack is another bolted route which is of 5.6-5.7 difficulty.


Nuts and cams to 3 inches. You can reach leftward and clip bolts to an adjacent route if you must, but try placing your own gear instead. There are chain anchors at the top, which were placed to serve other climbs, but are perfectly situated for this one.

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By David Gutzman
Sep 16, 2014

Little Chief actually starts in the crack, then goes left onto the face using the bolts as a sport route. 5.7
Too Many Chiefs stays in the crack as a trad route, 5.6. Just to clear up any confusion!

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